Chez Vrony

The art of simplicity

Author
Nathalie Cobos
Copyright
DR
Release
Winter 2016-2017

The snow is back and ushers in a new season in Zermatt.  Vrony and Max Julen mark its arrival by reopening the doors of Chez Vrony, their celebrated Findeln restaurant sitting on pastureland 2,100 metres above sea level. Offering superlative views of the Matterhorn from the terrace and fine, locally sourced gourmet cuisine, it is a popular haunt for diners from around the world. 

Vrony Julen, how is the 2016/17 season looking?
Things are looking very good. The snow has come early this year, and we were able to open on 26 November, in a real fairy-tale setting. My husband and I are raring to go, like the rest of our 30-strong team. We’ve got some new people on board and we’ve had to train them up. It gives us work, but it’s exciting too.

What’s new at Chez Vrony?
We’ve changed the decor a little and given the place a facelift, with new cushions and a different colour scheme. We’ve reorganised things a little too, replacing the high tables with corner tables for groups. And, of course, we’ve been making all the necessary repairs while we’ve been closed.

We’ve made a few changes to the menu too. We’re offering more vegetarian dishes and we’ve added a few new ones as well, including one in which foie gras takes pride of place and one with Merlot-braised Valais lamb shanks and parmesan polenta. I can assure you, though, that bestsellers, such as the Vrony burger and our dried meat, still have a very prominent place on the menu. We also have a specialities menu, which changes every two weeks and which includes our tartare, for example. As for the rest, we’ve stayed loyal to our philosophy of cooking traditional recipes that have been handed down from generation to generation, while reworking regional dishes with an international influence, all using local, organic produce. In short, its cuisine that’s simple and traditional and yet gourmet all the same.

You’ve been in the business for years. What is it that motivates you when you get up in the morning?
I’ve been working in the restaurant trade for 30 years now. I started with my parents when I was 21. To begin with I just wanted to help them out for a season, but I loved the atmosphere, the place and the people so much I decided to stay on. In 1997, I took over the restaurant with my husband Max and we made a few changes, reorganising the place and changing the kitchen and the menu. I’ve never regretted the choice I made, though there have definitely been times when I’ve asked myself why I didn’t do this or that. In my heart, though, I know that I’m where I belong. I have a very emotional connection with the restaurant. It’s a wonderful place in a stunning setting where every day is different, which goes for the landscape and the jobs you have to do. Something special happens every day. I’m right at home here.

Do you have any nice stories to tell us?
We’ve been lucky enough to have enjoyed a lot of very special moments. There are people who’ve met here at the restaurant, become friends and who come back every year to meet up. They’re unique, emotional moments. We’ve also had some wonderful recognition for our cuisine. We were selected by SWISS to take part in the Swiss Taste of Switzerland culinary programme from December 2013 to February 2014. Passengers travelling in business class were served Chez Vrony dishes. Then, for November 2015, we were invited by Jelmoli to cook in the restaurant of their Zurich store. This year we’ve taken part in the Excellence Gourmet Festival and we also cooked for 120 people aboard the Excellence Queen, alongside leading chefs such as Andreas Caminada. They were all amazing experiences and they’ve helped push us on.

Vrony and Max Cotting-Julen,Findeln, Zermatt