Helvet - Living the high life

Zermatt
A ski area in a class of its own

One of the great things about Zermatt is that it guarantees snow at a time when global warming leaves many resorts struggling to deliver on that front. Its vast ski area comprises three interconnected sectors: Sunnegga-Blauherd-Rothorn, Riffelberg-Gornergrat-Stockhorn, and Trockener Steg-Matterhorn Glacier Paradise, which peak at 3,103m, 3,532m and 3,883m respectively. The highest button lift even climbs up to a height of 3,899m, a mere 15 metres below the world’s highest, in Breckenridge, Colorado.Zermatt has everything a beginner could dream of: plenty of snow all to themselves and well away from the major runs, as well as travelators, fun and games, and free passes for kids under 9 years old and even for under-15s on Saturdays. Older skiers have the lion’s share of the runs, two-thirds of which are red and several others a dark red bordering on black. And how about exploring the Italian side, where the slopes are more sparsely populated and the scenery is every bit as amazing? Just make sure you don’t miss the last ski lift back to Zermatt though. Skiing off the beaten trackIf you had to choose just one location it would be the Stockhorn. When large quantities of snow fell last January, blanketing rocks and crevasses, seasoned skiers turned out in numbers to sample its legendary “yellow” runs (36 kilometres of semi-managed back country runs), which were in perfect nick after the stormy weather. Lovers of moguls are in seventh heaven on this 1,100m face, which tumbles down to the Findelgletscher, while freeriders can express themselves by the side of the run.On the other side of the glacier, the Rothorn boasts yellow runs of its own on a western face scored with rocky ravines, where the wind whips up large pillows of snow. They line the majestic black run through the trees from Blauherd and Petrullarve. If you wish, you can continue through the rock garden beneath the chairlift. The wow factorThere are many memorable runs waiting to be explored, all with the assistance of a guide from the resort’s Alpine Centre and with the necessary safety equipment. You’ll have to strap the seal skins on and slog it out a little, though if you don’t want to work up so much of a sweat then head past the Breithorn and the Klein Matterhorn to the Col de Schwarztor. It is a route that features a long gentle rise offering stunning views of white peaks, a pristine carpet of snow and then a slalom between seracs. The route leads to the Gorner Glacier, from where it heads back out via a wall of rock. The sense of achievement on returning to Zermatt is huge, as is the desire to do it all over again. The Breithorn, Cima du Jazzi, Fluhhorn, Fillarhorn or Pfulwe? The choice of a point from which to start again is yours.If you’re looking for something even wilder, then try a spot of heli-skiing on Monte Rosa (skiing only), the Alphubeljoch (snowboarding also) or the Aschihorn. The helicopter whips up a blizzard as it takes off but once it’s gone the silence deafens, the spirit soars and the adrenaline rushes. The slopes are soft and inviting, your eyes drawn to the virgin landscape. Civilisation is so far away, 2,500m down below, and the descent a long and silent dance between four thousanders and glaciers. It’s a dream fulfilled. www.zermatt.ch/fr/skierwww.alpincenter-zermatt.ch

Daniel Bauchervez 2018-01-18 09:00:20

Chalet
McKinley

These seven Alpine paradises all echo what is one of the world’s highest and most beautiful peaks by embodying the height of luxury, the nec plus ultra of mountain living in the digital age. But what lies behind the many doors of the Mckinley chalet? We have not come here in a romantic frame of mind, though now we mention it… With nearly 500m2 of floor area on four floors, the Mckinley is one big and very snug nest. It has everything you could possibly need, though if by any chance there is something missing, the very obliging people at Haute Montagne do all they can to fulfil even the most unexpected requirements, in both an efficient and discreet way. A chalet manager, concierge, personal chef and room attendants are on hand on a permanent basis, while masseuses and ski and yoga instructors can be there at a moment’s notice.If the Mckinley has a centrepiece, then it is, undoubtedly, the cavernous lounge, which seems big enough to swallow up a whole mountain. The warmth of the wood, encapsulated by the beams – with their natural aged patina – and solid parquet flooring, mirrors that of the glazed fireplace, the room’s passionately beating heart. On one side of the lounge stands a long table patiently awaiting diners. On the other sits a long and luxuriously inviting sofa. This is a room that reflects the essence of the Alps, reworked with an ethereally light, global concept in mind.The views of snowy peaks and the Matterhorn from the expansive balcony are simply inspirational. While some will be drawn to the slopes, which are served by the nearby Sunnegga cable car, others will refuse to budge, deeming any decision to leave such a warm and inviting haven as sacrilegious. The chalet’s private spa boasts a plunge pool for awakening the senses, a jacuzzi for warming your toes, a sauna and a hammam for getting a sweat on, and a chill-out area for guaranteed relaxation. And if you really have to work out, then the 7 Heavens gym is within easy reach. Alternatively, you can remain snuggled up under the duvet, paying no mind to the sun beating on the blackout curtains, or enjoy a leisurely afternoon chilling in the cinema and games room. It’s snowing? Then so much the better. www.hautemontagne.com/zermatt/...

Claude Hervé-Bazin 2018-02-08 14:44:27

Backstage
Loft

It is perfectly situated between the church and the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise cable car, and the architectural features of ultimate mountain luxury are all in place: large open-plan spaces; a cavernous lounge/dining area/kitchen; stunning wallhigh bay windows that invite the mountains and light into the dining areas and the intimate surroundings of the bedrooms; wood with a natural aged patina recalling the mountain villages of old; pelisses; and a home cinema, sauna, hammam and a fitness room. There is even a ski room at street level. It is all there right enough, and yet nothing looks the same. From the moment you first set eyes on this very intentional clash between the old and the contemporary, between the utilitarian and the luxury of the unnecessary, between industrial fluidity and an impassioned artistic temperament, you will recognise the unmistakable imprint of Heinz Julen.To begin with there was the little 700-year-old chalet, the source of inspiration for the architect/designer, housing a mere two bedrooms. The upstairs bedroom sits in an old wooden alcove that has been entirely refurbished and reworked: the structure, which has been completely revamped, now lets the light in and allows the old attic to breathe. Seen from the outside, the top of the mazot remains, with its stones set between the main supporting pillars to prevent rodents from climbing up. Sitting by its side, the main glass-panelled building is cloaked in stunning light wooden slats that form the most elegant of shells, which soaks up the sunshine. The bare concrete, the columns and the metal pillars, the fireplace in its cage, the kitchen in brushed steel and the excessiveness of the loft, with its interlocking spaces, all collide here with a raft of cheeky touches drawn from Julen’s imagination, his workshop and his contemporary art gallery (installed at the Backstage Hotel). Those touches include an old workbenchtransformed into a piece of furniture, a surfboard, a large mobile and a stunning chandelier made from pendants and the windows of the old chalet. If you need some room to dance in, the large glass table can be winched up to the ceiling at the click of a button. And what of the jacuzzi that seems to be suspended between the apartment and the countryside? With the Matterhorn to gorge on, take the plunge in a sort of glass tower that has the feel of an ivory tower, the walls of which slide back so that you can enjoy the pleasure of being inside or out. Hot or cold? It’s up to you. In addition, all the services of the Backstage Hotel (spa and cinema included) are thrown in along with a two-star chef on demand and the most attentive service possible. All you have to do is kick back and relax amid the mountains. www.backstagehotel.chwww.heinzjulen.com

Claude Hervé-Bazin 2018-01-11 08:00:49

Héli-
Alpes

Héli-Alpes has its base at the end of the runway at Sion Airport, just a stone’s throw or two from the centre of the city. The helicopter company operates a fleet of ten aircraft. As well as small piston-engined two-seaters such as the Robinson R22 and the Cabri, which are used for flying lessons, the fleet also comprises multi-purpose single-engine helicopters such as the Colibri and Squirrel, which are mainly used for transporting equipment and passengers, and luxurious twin-engine Bell 49s with autopilot, ideally suited to longer flights. The company employs seven pilots full time to fly the fleet, in addition to five freelance pilots who are called upon when needed, to cover seasonal peaks for instance. The bulk of their workload is made up of air taxi services, scenic flights over the Alps, first-time flights, high-altitude dining experiences and marriage proposals. For some of Héli-Alpes’ customers, distance is no object. The company has taken its passengers to Paris and Brussels on business, to Monte-Carlo for a night at the casino, to Ibiza house-hunting and even as far afield as Denmark. The most unusual assignment they have ever had? “Carrying a Komodo dragon for the Lausanne Vivarium. No question,” said Jean-Daniel Berthod, Héli-Alpes’ vice-president and COO. A wide range of activities Of all Héli-Alpes’ flagship services, it is heli-skiing that captures the imagination. There are no fewer than 40 designated landing sites in Switzerland, all of them offering virgin snow far from the madding crowd, to the delight of well-heeled ski lovers. “Heli-skiing accounts for about 15 percent of our turnover,” explained Berthod. “Like aerial work (which generates the same turnover), it’s an activity that is more lucrative than most, though it does take up more resources.” Héli-Alpes does not skimp on those resources, however. To respond to the needs of filmmakers, for example, the company has its own HD and FLIR cameras fitted in a Cineflex gyro-stabilized system. The flying school is a another key area of activity, as Berthod explained: “It’s been operating since 1987 – well before Héli-Alpes – through Groupe Hélico Sion, which is the company we emerged from. We put it on a professional footing in 2010 by offering both private and professional pilot licences, qualifications for all the helicopters we operate, training for mountain landings and night flying, and flight instructor and helicopter sling load pilot qualifications.” Onwards and upwards With military flights at Sion Air Base set to be discontinued in early 2018, Héli-Alpes has become an even more important mainstay of the local economy. The Swiss Army will continue to operate a clearing base in Sion (a role to which it is perfectly suited, given the region’s favourable climate) and will run the airport at its own expense through to 2021, at which point the site will need to reinvent itself and take on more of a civil role. Héli-Alpes has plans for when that happens. The airport currently records some 40,000 civil aircraft movements a year. A large number of private jets use the Sion runway (which, at two kilometres, is long enough for a 737 to land) as a gateway to Valais, with their passengers often hopping straight into a helicopter and making a beeline for the canton’s high-altitude resorts. Prince Albert II of Monaco is a regular visitor here and the airport is regularly frequented by holidaying financiers and captains of industry, the parents of children attending schools in the region, and celebrities and sports stars touring the area or on personal visits. If Sion Airport is to attract enough traffic to achieve financial stability, it needs to diversify, develop business aviation, present itself as a credible alternative to Geneva Airport – which is often over capacity – and resume regular flights. Should that future take shape, Héli-Alpes will not be short of opportunities to expand. www.helialps.ch

Daniel Bauchervez 2018-01-17 08:00:58

Julen Steiger
& Cie

It’s a lovely story. Though Florian Steiger boasts 12 solid years of experience in the high-end luxury real estate market, he hails from an entirely different world, having cut his teeth in the music industry. After retiring from the business, he took a little time off in the mountains before realising that was where his future lay.The real estate venture he set up was different from the outset. “I had a slightly offbeat view of things, and the company quickly set about adopting an alternative and more inclusive approach,” he explained. Its modus operandi is to support its customers and respond to their many needs before, during and after the creation of their real estate projects.Rather than focus on the sale and nothing else, he developed a comprehensive range of services through a vast network of partnerships: legal and tax information, construction site supervision for building and renovation projects, coordination with project managers and architects, asset maintenance, rental management and the provision of hotel-related services; in short, everything that, to some extent or other, is involved in the whole real estate life cycle.The Verbier-based Steiger teamed up with the Zermatt-based Mario Julen in 2012. Together, they have developed a powerful strike force on the high-end – very high-end, for that matter – luxury real estate scene. In the process, they have become indispensable allies for wealthy clients looking for shelter in the very finest resorts Le Valais has to offer. Florian Steiger, who are your privileged partners?We’re working with a group of professionals who make up a whole ecosystem of luxury real estate. For architectural projects we work with Studio Comina, which is the biggest in Le Valais. For catering, it’s Haute Montagne, an industry benchmark, who provide the services. And as for brokerage services, we’ve developed an exclusive partnership with Cardis Sotheby’s International Realty in Zermatt, Verbier and now Crans-Montana. We also make it a priority to work with local specialist construction companies and we strive to promote local materials, all with the aim of being coherent and promoting sustainable development. Nearly all of our developments are Minergie-approved as well. Can you tell us more about your projects?It usually takes several years for a real estate project to come to fruition, from the original idea through to its execution. In Zermatt, we’re putting the finishing touches to the last of the seven 7 Heavens chalets, a complex that is ideally situated in the centre of the resort, right next to the Sunnegga cable car (all seven chalets have a floor area of over 500m2). We’re currently working on a new and utterly unique property in the heart of the village. It’s called the Chalet du Centre and it has a swimming pool, spa, hammam, home cinema room, wine cellar and studio for the staff. In conjunction with that we’re working with the Parisian interior designer Pierre Yovanovitch on the Nivalia project, which is a hamlet of nine mazots, each with a floor area of around 400m2. We’re also totally refurbishing the Alpina Savoy Hotel in Crans-Montana. It’s a big project and it should be complete in four to five years’ time. Who are your customers?We’re lucky in that we have a stable customer base that is relatively immune to economic crises. It’s mostly European, though we also have clients from North and South America, the Middle East and Asia. With the current changes to business practices and communications, some entrepreneurs can spend two or three months in their properties, in the resort, and make a few round trips just to check that their business is going as it should. Switzerland offers a sense of security and they see it as a haven where they can get away from it all and spend time with their families, which is something they value. So their motivation is essentially personal in nature?Yes, out-and-out investors are in the minority. That said, most of the owners appreciate the fact that they can leave their properties in our hands when they’re away. Hybrid hospitality is a concept that’s growing here, as it is elsewhere in the world. The 7 Heavens is an example of just such a project, as it combines business and pleasure, luxuriousness and profitability.

Claude Hervé-Bazin 2018-02-22 08:00:15

La Cordée
des Alpes

We may be up among the snow-capped peaks, but we’re a million miles from the rustic comfort of the average mountain hut. At La Cordée de Alpes, it’s more about discreet luxury in inviting surroundings which cater to your well-being. The décor is discerning; contemporary interiors infused with subtle touches of nostalgia harking back to the Alps of times gone by. A pair of old, weather-worn skis lean delicately against the wall, old wooden panelling and furniture feature throughout, and the intricacy of the carved balconies is akin to lace. “We drew inspiration from old hotels from the turn of the last century. But that doesn’t mean we’ve overlooked the requirements of a modern hotel!” explains Marcus Bratter, the Swiss-Australian who owns this establishment, as well as the Nevaï nearby.The cosy chalet-style décor makes you instantly feel at home — but better! In the 32 bedrooms and suites, the quilts are plumped up like clouds, the pillows dreamily soft, and cosy rugs yearn for you to wrap yourself up in them – an unadulterated invitation to kick back and relax. We continue our visit to discover a lounge area with a fireplace, a huge bathroom and a balcony offering a panoramic view of the mountains. A spa for enchanted eveningsThe pursuit of well-being continues with a spa in the basement. We’d gladly sink into the water in the Jacuzzi or do a few gentle laps in the adjacent 15m pool, surrounded by high vaulted ceilings. A steam room and a sauna round off the facilities. Aching muscles? Succumb to the expert hands of the therapists at the Cinq Mondes and Karin Herzog Spa for an organic massage treatment using aromatic plants from the Napf pastures. For those aspiring to total privacy, the spa can be privatised. Then collect your thoughts as you recline on a chaise longue by the fireplace as you contemplate the beautiful view of the treetops. A prestigious tableThe journey of the senses carries on into the evening in La Cordée’s fine dining restaurant, a blend of urban brasserie, cosy booths, exposed beams and shuttered windows which lay claim to its Alpine identity.The bar is the best spot for admiring the chef Fabrice Taulier and his team as they go about preparing their wares in the large open kitchen. Trained by some of the best chefs (2 and 3 Michelin stars), and namely by Joël Robuchon, the new chef from Cannes is hard to beat for references: he has worked at the Royal Plaza in Montreux, at the Grand Hôtel du Lac in Vevey, and at the Mirador Kempinski. The menu is strongly inspired by local products, meticulously sourced from Valais producers and farmers, and worked under the codes of French gastronomic cuisine with a touch of contemporary boldness. For even more originality, you could be invited to dine at the ‘chef’s table’ – serving up to five guests in the kitchens. Hotel and residenceTucked inside La Cordée des Alpes are a handful of spacious private apartments, some of which can be hired for the day or by the week. Comprising two or three bedrooms, they can accommodate up to six guests and include the personalised services of a concierge, which can be called upon to arrange meals at the residence or book private ski lessons or a mountain guide. These luxury apartments also have access to the same services as the hotel’s rooms (breakfast, shuttle buses to the slopes, etc.). Ultimate luxury. www.hotelcordee.com

Claude Hervé-Bazin 2018-02-01 14:20:32

Christiania
Residence

Situated in the heart of old Zermatt, this four-floor chalet stands in the shadow of the slender spire of St Mauritius Parish Church, or as near to it as possible. The church’s bells discreetly mark out the time, rising on Sundays to a crescendo in praise of the Eternal, their mere repetition celebrating the timelessness of this corner of the world.The Christiania’s location makes its transformation seem all the greater. All that remains of the building erected in the middle of the 19th century – a time when the first British visitors swooned at the sight of the Matterhorn – is the wooden framework, made lustrous by many winters. The windows have disappeared, to be replaced by bay windows offering views of the iconic mountain and the surrounding landscape. Balconies now run all the way along the southern façade and also face westwards, looking out to the cluster of old wooden houses that are the pride of the resort.These days the Christiania is home to eight apartments that offer, as you might imagine, luxurious comfort. It is the top floor that attracts our interest in particular, however, comprising as it does a vast apartment with seven huge bedrooms, each containing beds as big as oceans. The colours, materials and proportions of the interiors are unmistakably modern, right down to the bathrooms with their black earthenware tiling. Frequently rented to both private and corporate groups, the penthouse boasts an extensive open-plan living area with room enough for 24 guests beneath a pine ceiling supported on massive beams. There is a refrigerated wine cellar built into the wall, a long dining table just waiting for guests to arrive, and a lounge area which features extensive grey settees that form a snug square looking on to a contemporary fireplace.As you might have guessed, the Christiania fulfils all your leisure needs. Aside from a cinema room, there is a sauna on the third floor, a large gym room and a massage room on the ground floor and two outdoor hot tubs, the perfect spots from which to marvel at Le Valais’ starry skies by night. www.brambleski.com/zermatt/chr...

Claude Hervé-Bazin 2018-03-29 08:00:39

Patrouille
des Glaciers

Its ageFirst organised in 1943 by the Swiss army, the PDG is one of the oldest ski mountaineering races in the world. At the time, it served to test the troops’ capacities. Since, it has become part of Switzerland’s cultural landscape. It was stopped in 1949 for a long time after three patrollers fell to their death in a crevasse, and started up again in 1984. Since then it has been held every two years and has become increasingly popular and there are now more candidates than places. The race is still organised by the Swiss army with its military precision. Its difficultyThe course covers 53 km with an altitude gain of almost 4000 m, an effort equivalent to 110 km on the flat. As such, the PDG exceeds its two main rival races: the Pierra Menta, in Savoie, France and the Mezzalama Trophy held in the Aosta valley, Italy. “Technically, the PDG is difficult” considers Florent Troillet, who has won the race three times (twice on the long route, once on the shorter route). “The roped descent down the glacier from Tête Blanche and the 200 m climb to Rosablanche with your skis on your backpack are particularly tricky to negotiate.” And to have a hope of arriving among the first, or, even better, beating the record of 5 hours 52 minutes set by Florent Troillet and his teammates Martin Anthamatten and Yannick Ecoeur in 2010, you’ll need to have climbed at least 200,000 m in training. The magic of the AlpsThe PDG starts out at night, and winds its way between the 4000 m high Valais mountain peaks and crevasses. The race peaks at 3,800 m. It’s very high altitude, with the panorama that goes with it: summits, sweeping snow-covered slopes, glaciers, the Berthold refuge, and the Grande Dixence Dam. Not forgetting that it starts and finishes in two of Switzerland’s most famous resorts, Zermatt and Verbier, setting off from one of the mountaineering capitals of the world and arriving in one of the Alps’ most outstanding freeride spots… Its unique natureThe PDG is unique in that it is undertaken in teams of three. That means you have to know your team mates inside out, and be able to progress together. Despite the competitive edge, there’s a strong community spirit among the patrollers. The event is open to all – both elite athletes and common mortals alike – and as a matter of principle, there’s no prize money on offer for the winners. www.PDG.ch

Laurent Grabet 2018-03-15 08:00:51

The unmissable
Verbier Charity Night

Some 40 sporting champions and celebrities have answered the call of Eric-A. Balet, Téléverbier SA’s head of business development, and will be attending the 11th Verbier Charity Night on 6 April 2018. One of the must-attend events of the calendar, it is always eagerly awaited, as Balet explained: “People often call me to find out when the invitations are going out.” To reserve a ten-seat table, one must pay CHF4,000. Eight of those seats go to the buyer and their guests and the two remaining seats are occupied by VIPs or sports stars. All proceeds from the evening go to three charity organisations, among them Right To Play, which was founded at the Olympic Winter Games Lillehammer 1994 in support of children living in the world’s poorest countries. For the last few years the event has also been supporting young athletes from the region and Switzerland as a whole through the Verbier Freeride Association and the Association Aide Sportive Suisse. In total, more than CHF 600,000 has been donated to the three charities since 2008.Star guests at the 2018 Charity Night will include skiing icons such as Alberto Tomba, Hermann Maier, Lindsey Vonn and Tina Maze. Like their fellow celebrities, they will be only too happy to chat with the other guests and pose for photos, which is one of the many things that makes the event so special. Selfie and autograph hunters will also have the chance to track down the likes of Bernhard Russi, Didier Defago, Pirmin Zurbriggen, Marc Girardelli and Roland Collombin, champion skiers who have all done their bit in writing the history of the sport over the last 40 years. Also in attendance will be Pascal Richard, an Olympic cycling champion at Atlanta 1996, and personalities such as Bertrand Piccard and Yves Rossy (aka Jetman).With entertainment figuring large on the programme, a number of well-known singers have performed at the event in the past, among them James Blunt. Bastian Baker and Hughes Aufray proved just as much of a draw at last year’s star-studded gathering, which was also held at the Halle Saint-Marc. Providing performers with the perfect setting, it boasts acoustics that rival those of the best concert halls. Bookings are now being taken (maximum 250 places). To reserve your table, please write toverbiercharitynight@televerbier.ch

Daniel Bauchervez 2018-03-22 08:00:48

Unplugged
a festival made in Switzerland

“It’s just amazing when you discover a place as stunning as this through music,” said American singer/songwriter Laura Pergolizzi, aka LP, the breakout success of 2016. “I wasn’t expecting the Matterhorn to make such an impression on me.” Her words were echoed by many of the 50 or so acts who were invited to celebrate the tenth anniversary of the resort’s Unplugged festival. “Incredible,” said Graham Candy. “Very different. Unique,” added Canadian singer Nelly Furtado, who headlined along with Stephan Eicher, Paolo Nutini and Michael Bolton (“An amazing experience!”). “The most beautiful place I’ve ever seen,” added British singer Jess Glynne.Zermatt Unplugged is simply acoustic music at its most intimate, music that is stripped back and shorn of all studio artifice. And only the most seasoned performers have what it takes to appear there. Zermatt Unplugged is not a tour date; it is a challenge that often involves rearranging songs especially for the occasion. The sound of music at its purest echoing around the Alpine peaks is a revelatory experience on both a professional and personal level.Zermatt Unplugged is also a unique setting at the foot of the 38 four-thousanders that provide such a stunning backdrop to the resort. Some of the festival’s dozen stages can be found in the village, nestling between marquees, hotels and bars, while others are more daringly situated, right on top of the world at Sunnegga station (2,288 metres above sea level), for example, or on the extensive snowy embankment that stretches out before the venerable Gandegghütte mountain hut, 3,030 metres above sea level.Though many of them are small in size, these exceptional stages all add to the intimacy of a festival with a welcoming, friendly vibe, an event where you can dance your socks off and also savour the culinary delights on offer at the all-new Taste Village.The 11th edition of Unplugged will take place, as per usual, at the end of the season, on 10-14 April 2018. The programme will be announced on 11 December. Save the date! www.zermatt-unplugged.ch

Claude Hervé-Bazin 2018-03-08 08:00:38