Helvet - Living the high life

Verbier – Zermatt

While the biennial Patrouille des Glaciers follows this route from Zermatt to Verbier, more often than not this trail is taken in the opposite direction. Why? To save the best for last and finish with the breathtaking views that come with the 4,000 m inner mountains that surround Zermatt.The beginning of the route is rather easy: using a set of climbing skins, one heads towards the Col de La Chaux (2,940 m), with Mont Fort just above (3,330 m) and the Bec des Rosses (3,223 m) just ahead. A short descent is next, followed by a beautiful sun-kissed climb in the cotton-white, over ridges and flat zones until arriving at Rosablanche (3,336 m). Towards the south lie the Grands Combins in all their glory and, in the far-off distance, Mont Blanc. All one has to do now is ski down the Glacier de Prafleuri towards its cabane (mountain hut) at 2,662 m, where hot showers await.Day two begins with a climb towards the Col des Roux (2,804 m) and a rather long, inconvenient crossing over the eastern slope of the Sâle towards the Pleureur, always heading in the direction of the southern side of Lake Dix (which may be difficult to recognize if it’s still under winter’s snow). From there, a large rocky overhanging leads narrowly into the Pas du Chat. It takes 4-5 hours to reach the Dix Hut from here, giving one plenty of time to soak in the spectacular views of the north face of Mont Blanc de Cheillon (3,870 m), which towers above the Val des Dix.The next day’s long, steep climb towards Pigne d’Arolla (3,790 m) is broken up by an icy passage requiring crampons and roping up at La Serpentine. The reward is not far off and the summit offers unobstructed views of the entire Haute Route passage, from Chamonix to Zermatt, from Mont Blanc to the Matterhorn. While soaking in the views, true Haute Route regulars may find their minds already drifting towards the rösti that awaits them at the Vignettes Hut.Day four is dismal. Strong winds brutally drive the sleet into any bit of exposed skin with a biting sting. The climb to Col de l’Évêque (3,386 m) feels never-ending and the descent over the Arolla glacier feels more dangerous than amusing. The final leg towards the Bertol Hut includes a dishearteningly steep climb (nearly 800 meters in altitude change), and an obligatory climb over long metal ladders that are drilled into the rocks themselves… ugh.And yet the last part of the journey boasts incredible views, making it worth the struggle, especially when good weather returns. The exceptional lookout reveals the Tête Blanche (3,710 m) at the Italian border, Dent Blanche (4,357 m) to the northeast, Dent d’Hérens (4,174 m) ahead, and the Matterhorn (4,478 m) in the distance. The five-hour descent down the northern slopes towards Zermatt takes one between serac tops and suspended glaciers- a journey that feels almost too short given the unparalleled beauty of the view. On a technical level, the trail is designed for skiers in good physical condition who are able to travel four to five hours at medium speed (at around 300 m in positive altitude change per hour). Verbier and Zermatt mountain guides organize guided expeditions of the route that usually include equipment, along with room and board in the huts along the way. www.zermatters.ch (Zermatt mountain guides)www.cabanedesdix.comwww.cabanedesvignettes.chwww.bertol.chwww.slf.ch (avalanche updates)

Claude Hervé-Bazin 2018-12-05 07:00:06

The Zermatterhof

“Slow and steady wins the race,” they say, and the Grand Hotel Zermatterhof has embraced this proverb wholeheartedly. Its four horses used to pull the hotel’s horse-drawn carriage or sled are named Manuela, Cypria, Conversano and Favory, and they are treated to a level of comfort that rivals the best 5-star establishments. In return for their loyal service, these horses enjoy large, luxurious stables, built in 2013 in Winkelmatten (1 km from the hotel). The luminous stables include easy, seasonal access to the local pastures, heated drinking troughs and a wash station that nearly resembles a spa, complete with a solarium. “It serves a double purpose,” says Ivan Buschor, who manages the stables. “On the one hand it helps dry the horses in winter after they’ve been washed, which helps keep them from getting sick, and it also helps their muscles relax.” Buschor, a former member of the Knie circus, knows how to pamper his patrons, adding “they’re also fed premium food and each have their own harness.” Guests staying at the hotel often come visit these 5-star stables to say hello to the hotel’s four, fine grey-speckled Lipizzaners. Some will even go so far as to help with brushing down the horses or cleaning the stables, a calming experience according to the hotel’s website, which assures one that “a half hour of horse petting is, by the way, far more relaxing than any yoga session.” Much less tiring too! Horse-drawn carriage or sled rides are possible any season and any day of the week for hotel clients. Yet in order to assure the health and wellbeing of the horses, they generally only work every other day.

Hadrien Cauvelez 2018-12-08 07:00:02

Matterhorn

Every summer, between late June and late September, some 2,500 alpinists try to scale the Matterhorn. About 40% of them will pass via the Hörnli Ridge, the route of the first ascent and the most frequented of the four classic routes that reaches the summit. This past July 7th, an international group of 26 alpinists got up at 3:45 am and attempted tackle the Hörnligrat. They came from all corners of the globe: Switzerland and France, yes, but also Brazil, Argentina, Australia and Hungary. 600 Deaths in 153 YearsThis route features an almost-vertical wall of rock, located directly behind the cabane. Most of the climbers already notice it the night before, examining it with a glance that’s half-distracted, half-evocative. This mountain is responsible for over 600 deaths. It’s one of the deadliest mountains in the world, as a multitude of metal plaques drilled into the gneiss along the way will attest. Luckily, the majority of climbers today know it’s best to hire a guide, as trying to find the path in a maze of unstable boulders on your own is practically a lost cause (and can possibly be deadly).For our ascent, the mercury drops to – 2°C and a sea of clouds seems to separate the world below from this exceptionally icy universe; a world of its own. The Alpine procession moves forward slowly as the sun finally makes an appearance on the horizon, illuminating the thousands of glaciers that pepper the surrounding landscape. One cannot help but be humbled; the feeling of smallness is overwhelming here in the face of such immensity. No Traffic, Lots of Snow There are few volunteers for this morning’s ascent. While this does mean the usual morning traffic is not an issue (sometimes there are over 130 people trying to climb at the same time!), this morning’s progress is made difficult by abundant snow that obliges climbers to put on their crampons much earlier than usual. After almost three hours of upward trekking, roped together, the Solvay cabane finally appears. At 4,003 meters, this 20m2 shanty sits perched on the edge of a cliff, like a security guard with a watchful eye over all those who attempt to pass. Safety is of utmost concern and, as a rule of thumb, local guides will turn back with any client who cannot reach the cabane within three hours.After pausing to take in the breathtaking panorama it’s time to continue. Thick, hemp robes permeate the most difficult parts of the route (a modern day luxury that Whymper and his team were not able to enjoy when they first climbed the Matterhorn on July 14th, 1865). Permanent metal pins, drilled into the rock, provide checkpoints for rope safety along the way, relieving guides who would otherwise have to improvise or “sling a horn.” A Long and Dangerous DescentAltitude accentuates all things, fatigue being no exception. On the way up the going is slow, one’s breath is shallow and one’s muscles burn painfully. The last 150 meters require leaving the ridge and heading straight for the summit along the snowy slope of the north face. It was near here that Géraldine Fasnacht made history in 2014 for being the first to base jump in a wing suit off the Matterhorn. Just a few steps from the top, an almost-eerie statue of Saint Bernard, patron saint of alpinists, welcomes weary adventurers. Less than a minute later, one is at the summit with a magnificent 360° view, 4,478 meters above the world below. Now is the time to hug, high-five and take photos, all hands raised in victory. This is what it means to “take the path less travelled by.” Another five to six hours of descent await already-weary climbers before they arrive back where they started, 1,200 meters below. Only then can the dream of climbing the famous Matterhorn finally (and fully) come true. www.zermatt.chwww.nolimitsexperience.ch

Laurent Grabet 2019-01-03 07:00:58

La Cordée des Alpes

At La Cordée des Alpes, a member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World, it’s all about discreet luxury in inviting surroundings which cater to your well-being. The décor is discerning; contemporary interiors infused with subtle touches of nostalgia harking back to the Alps of times gone by. A pair of old, weather-worn skis lean delicately against the wall, old wooden panelling and furniture feature throughout, and the intricacy of the carved balconies is akin to lace. The cosy décor makes you instantly feel at home — but better! In the 32 bedrooms and suites, the quilts are plumped up like clouds, the pillows dreamily soft, and cosy throws yearn for you to wrap yourself up in them — an unadulterated invitation to kick back and relax. Further on, you come to a lounge area with a fireplace, a huge bathroom and a balcony offering a panoramic view of the mountains.The pursuit of well-being continues in a delicious spa (that can be privatised) in the basement. Sink into the water in the Jacuzzi or do a few gentle laps in the adjacent 15 m pool (heated to 29 °C), surrounded by high vaulted ceilings and sculpted wooden screens. Along with the steam room and a sauna, there’s a warm stone bench, a fireplace, a panoramic view and three wellness rooms where you will find Cinq Mondes and Karin Herzog Spa treatments with aromatic plants and Balinese fruit. La Cordée’s fine dining restaurant (Gault&Millau’s verdict: 14 out of 20) is a blend of urban brasserie, cosy booths, exposed beams and shuttered windows which lay claim to its Alpine identity. Working away in the open kitchen is the chef Fabrice Taulier who comes from Cannes and has worked in a number of Michelin-starred restaurants in France and Switzerland. He swears by fresh and local products.Tucked inside La Cordée des Alpes there are also 17 very high-end private apartments (ranging from 75 to 300 m²!), some of which can be hired for the day or by the week. Comprising two or three bedrooms, they can accommodate up to six guests and have access to the same services as the hotel’s rooms. They also come with the personalised services of a concierge, which can be called upon to book private ski lessons or a mountain guide for example. Ultimate luxury. www.hotelcordee.com

Claude Hervé-Bazin 2018-12-15 07:00:49

The Glacier Express

It’s “the slowest express train in the world” according to its slogan, a cherished fact among riders. The journey goes through the local valleys in a series of wide banking turns, climbing the valley walls amid great pine trees, continuing up the hillsides through the Alpine pastures, plunging into the valley’s gorges, and crossing icy glacial waters via a series of small, sleepy villages (many of which seem frozen in time). The route includes 91 tunnels and 291 bridges of all sizes (averaging one bridge per kilometer). There’s no doubt about it: the Glacier Express is not your average commuter train.St. Moritz, 9:15 am. The train station faces the steel-blue St. Moritz Lake, which spreads out along the base of the Upper Engadin mountains. To the right, the larch forests and the naked summit of Muottas Muragl (2,453 meters) complete the panoramic view of the station through the train’s large bay windows. The train moves slowly forward, out of the Inn River’s valley and into the Albula River’s valley. This leg of the journey takes riders across 55 bridges, through 39 tunnels (some which spiral around themselves) and up a slope of 7°, a true tribute to the Golden Era of train travel. Further along, past Filisur, the steep cliffs eventually give way to reveal Landwasser and its railway viaduct, which carries travelers across the water over six arch spans that are 65 meters high. The viaduct is a signature structure that helped classify the Albula Railway (which operates the Glacier Express) as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.The rest of the journey is no less exceptional. The train winds through northern Grisons through Ruinaulta, known for its white cliffs that shoot 350 meters up into the air and which give the area its (appropriate) nickname: the “Grand Canyon” of Switzerland. Only the train, hikers and bikers can pass through here, before reaching the Oberlap Pass at 2,033 meters, the highest point on this railway journey. The passage feels almost airy, then one hits Andermatt, the Furka Base Tunnel, and then the Goms region (where many Eastern Valais specialties hail from), before coming up under the Great Aletsch Glacier that clings to mountains above.In Visp, the Glacier Express branches one last time, leaving the Rhône Valley as it makes its gentle ascent towards Zermatt. From a distance, the valley’s straight “V” shape is hidden behind snow-covered mountain tops. But no matter how hard one looks, the elusive Matterhorn will remain out of view until one has actually arrived in the station and exited the train.To take full advantage of the itinerary, one can split it into a two-day journey (with an overnight in Andermatt) aboard the Glacier Pullman Express. This adventure is almost like traveling through time, as one rides in authentic vintage Pullman wagons (pulled by an actual Crocodile locomotive) that date from the 1930s, complete with a piano bar and a vintage restaurant car with large, gold embossed booths… very à la Orient Express. www.glacierexpress.ch/enwww.rhb.ch/en/world-of-railway...

Daniel Bauchervez 2018-12-16 07:00:40

W Verbier

You’re most likely to find W hotels in cities. Founded 20 years ago in New York, they have made their stylishly hip mark around the world and have now branched out to coastal locations and the mountains too, in Verbier to be exact, right at the foot of the slopes, in the form of four large, opulent chalets. So, why here? Because the resort and the brand share the same energy, the same trendy appeal, and the same youthful, fun-loving clientele.W for Wow. The 5-star establishment immerses its guests in a funky ambience that simply cannot be found at major hotel chains. There’s no lobby here but a living room, while guests don’t “stay” but “live” and drink to DJ beats in ultra-trendy interiors boasting a liberal sprinkling of cushions, a green stag and a pink rabbit. The wow factor also infuses its 123 rooms and suites, which offer luxurious comfort lit up by glass-encased fireplaces, not to mention walls and alcoves upholstered in bright red, translucent pendant-shaped lights, and trunk stools. W for What a vieW! Each room has a balcony looking out on to Les Grands Combins.W for Whatever Whenever, which happens to be the slogan of the concierge service. The W is a place where every wish is fulfilled. The plentiful staff are both extremely well trained and attentive to your every need. Finding employment at a W hotel is no easy task; an article in a Boston newspaper described places at Harvard as easier to come by.W for Wet. Every W hotel has its swimming pool. With its graceful curves reminiscent of turns carved in powder snow, W Verbier’s pool goes through walls, sitting as it does half inside and half outside, with huge windows separating the heat from the cold. Covering a floor area of no less than 800 m2, the adjoining AWay© Spa comprises a jacuzzi, sauna, steam room, chill-out area, and treatment rooms (La Prairie and Phyto5). On offer are massage detox packages, holistic treatments, and chromotherapy, as well as fitness facilities and a yoga and pilates room. And if you’re feeling peckish, apples are available to munch on as well as a menu featuring sweet and savoury snacks.There are also off-piste nibbles to be had at the essential Carve sushi bar and at Eat-Hola, a chic, sleek tapas bar run by Catalan star chef Sergi Arola. In the evening W Kitchen serves up delicious Swiss cuisine with a twist beneath clusters of copper-accented lights, with an illuminated bottle wall forming the backdrop. www.wverbier.com

Claude Hervé-Bazin 2018-12-27 07:00:38

Chalet
Bioley

The finely crafted details of its large wooden balustrade — featuring alternating snowflake and cow’s head motifs — set the tone on arrival. This is more a statement than a fantasy, a way of infusing the chalet with the soul of its surroundings, its head high up in the snow squalls, its feet firmly planted in the grass of the meadows.It’s all here, within sight and easy reach: the village centre, the ski lifts, the eternal mountain in the background. The views are largely to the south, enjoyed fully from the covered terrace on the second floor, part of a balcony that runs generously around three sides of the chalet. It’s a perfect outpost for breakfast looking out on to the powdery snow. It’s the same again on the lower floor, home to the five bedrooms, three of which offer full-frame panoramic views. A flight of fancy is provided by the fire pit and hot tub on the balcony, which invite you to defy the chilly twilight air.Given its appearance, it is hard to believe that the Chalet Bioley has just been built. The imposing master beams, fine stone fireplace, and the deer-head chandelier all speak of tradition. The furniture also blends in seamlessly with the décor. There are no avant-garde follies here; just wicker armchairs, sofas the colour of dry earth (but very comfortable all the same), and cushions that make no attempt to be noticed. This is living done the simple way.The figures also reflect this sense of modesty, deceiving though it is. A floor area of 600 m² is relatively small for the times and the superchalet race we live in. Some of the resort’s larger offerings boast more than 1,000 m² of living space. Yet this is no flashback either: the Bioley is very much of its time, with its designer lighting, state-of-the-art Bluetooth-compatible Bose sound system, large lift, double washbasins, and boot room with ski boot warmers. Comfort guaranteed, no question!

Claude Hervé-Bazin 2018-12-10 07:00:01

Nabucco
Penthouse

The Nabucco Penthouse, named after the Verdi opera, is a place of architectural splendor worthy of La Scala and any great Babylonian King. This luxurious space incorporates only the best of ancient Mesopotamia, while also offering modern upscale conveniences like the elevator that leads directly to the apartment entrance. The doors open to a hallway made of elegant wooden beams that reveal the heart of the space: a vast, cathedral-like living and dining room area, built around a direct view of the majestic Matterhorn. This 437 m2 space is one of Zermatt’s most exclusive. It’s the plush and perfect union of mountain tradition and contemporary comfort. The apartment’s floors and accent walls of elegant, upcycled wood contrast beautifully with the modernity of the ceiling’s exposed, white beams. The living room’s proud fireplace is double-sided, allowing those in the kitchen (where a second dining area is located) to also fully enjoy its crackling heat. Tucked into a corner of the main dining area is a charming TV nook, located below two of the bedrooms and furnished with the very latest in audiovisual technology.A spectacular stairway leads to the inviting second floor, which is dominated by the large master bedroom, its fireplace, ensuite bathroom, and balcony overlooking the Matterhorn. The two additional bedrooms, which share a bathroom, are further complimented by an open office space directly above the TV nook. All rooms boast closets and cupboards that are flush with the walls, giving the entire apartment a sleek, minimal feel that’s practical without disrupting the ethereal harmony intended by its architects.

Serge Greter 2018-12-13 07:00:48

The joys
of Les 4 Vallées

While the name of Verbier is always up in lights, its ski area is far bigger than the resort itself. The appropriately named 4 Vallées extends, in fact, from both sides of the Val de Bagnes (in the west), through the untamed Vallon d’Arbi and the Val de Nendaz, and on to the Val d’Hérémence (in the east). These four valleys are joined by a welter of peaks and summits so numerous that counting them is no easy task.From the beating heart of Verbier, the resort’s newly installed, comfortable and speedy ski lifts (82 of them at the last count) climb over the natural balconies of Savoleyres, La Croix-de-Cœur, Les Ruinettes and La Chaux, dotted on the crests of the amphitheatre formed by the resort, which faces due south, out to the Combins and Mont Blanc massifs. Panoramic is not the word. Into the bargain there is a vast range of blue and red runs for intermediate skiers to enjoy, with snow guaranteed by a battery of snow cannons should the weather fail to deliver.On the eastern side we soar up to the peaks of Les Attelas (2,727 m), Mont Gelé (3,023 m), the Col des Gentianes (2,950 m) and, up above, Mont Fort (3,330 m), the high point of the ski area and a place that affords the most stunning views of the Pennine Alps. Anything is possible from here, provided that you have the skills. The pick of the runs are the black one that shoots down from the summit and features long moguls sections, and the yellow runs (marked but not groomed), which offer a taste of freeride. And there’s a whole host of altitude bars and restaurants to meet your R&R needs.Over on the northern side, we swing our way through the forest to La Tzoumaz, a tranquil family resort with a newly installed travellator, making it ideal for beginners. Blues and reds also prevail here.Lying just to the north of MontFort, Nendaz is famed for its snow cover and proud of its “families welcome” tag, as the presence of two snow gardens, two day-care centres, a snowpark, a snow tubing park and an ice rink shows. On the opposite side of the valley stands the authentically unassuming Veysonnaz, which is home to just eight runs, among them the celebrated Piste de l’Ours, the venue of many a World Cup event.Situated on the western flank of the Val d’Hérémence, Thyon, with its three terraces ranging in altitude from 1,600 m to 2,000 m, offers copious amounts of sunshine, facilities for children (including a snow garden), a beginners-only area (with three runs), and an excellent snowpark by the name of Centralpark. Treasure hunts are also held on the blue runs.And let us not forget the smallest ski area of them all: Bruson. Getting there involves taking the Châble gondola lift down from Verbier and then climbing back up the opposite side of the Val de Bagnes. At journey’s end lie a fistful of runs (most of them red), good snow cover, and some superb semi-wild runs through the forest, for those of you who like to go off the marked track. www.4vallees.ch

Claude Hervé-Bazin 2018-12-12 07:00:24

Haute Cartography

We all remember the treasure maps of our childhood and the world map posters that decorated our elementary school classrooms. “I’ve always been passionate about cartography,” says Spitzwork Founder, Patrick Pestalozzi. “A map shows where we’ve been and where we’re going. It offers a plethora of information and gives us an entirely new perspective of our current location and our surroundings. One can spend hours pouring over a map, diving into every nook and becoming familiar with every cranny.”The truth is, Spitzwerk maps are a total paradigm shift. Forget everything you know about those maps from your childhood, those maps that display territories with some vague colors and a general idea of precision. This three-year old company, founded in Switzerland’s Watch Valley in upper Jura, relies on the latest technologies to bring mapmaking back into the realm of the decorative arts. Their mantra: large-scale extreme precision. The Art of DetailsSpitzwerk was born out of the union between Patrick Pestalozzi, a Swiss-American entrepreneur, and Éric Marguet, an Engineer. “I was visiting the University of Saint-Imier for an entirely different project, when I stumbled upon a tiny, incredibly-detailed map of Switzerland made out of brass,” recalls Patrick Pestalozzi. “I asked Éric if it would be possible to recreate his work out of wood and on a bigger scale and he liked the challenge. That’s how it all began.” Their idea seemed so simple... but art is often difficult and extremely complicated. It would take them three years to complete the research and development needed to bring their idea to life. Three years to fine-tune the necessary approach to recreate a map of Switzerland with a precision of 22 microns on a surface that was 84.1 cm x 59.4 cm (A1 format). Three years of trial and error to create a patented, digital manufacturing process that meets Spitzwerk’s high standards for maps of Switzerland and Valais, with other regions to follow. In Another DimensionThe numbers speak wonders about the technical know-how on display in every Spitzwerk creation: eight weeks of non-stop work, day and night (the equivalent of 4,273 km of toolpath for a map of Switzerland). “Our algorithms transform geospatial data and allow us to reproduce landscapes with far greater detail in wood or ceramic than one could ever get on a computer screen,” explains Pestalozzi. Creation of the Valais map, which has a precision of 28 microns, requires a reduced fabrication time of “only” six weeks… “Our maps are not simple engravings; they’re decorative objects of extreme precision that are only possible with the very latest technology.”Indeed, many of the details are imperceptible to the naked eye, but if one looks closely… Here, a gorge. A bit further, a glacial tongue. There, an unexpected summit. Anyone who is passionate about the mountains, loves maps or simply appreciates beautiful creations, will find that these maps reveal a wealth of details and treasures upon examination (even more so if one uses a magnifying glass). One can get lost for hours in the topographies of our maps,” says Pestalozzi. “I remember a mountain guide looking at one and being able to name at least forty peaks!” These stunning objects are the perfect union of large surface space and infinitely small details, sculpted in maple or beech wood, or molded in ceramic. Spitzwerk maps are the modern day successors of Switzerland’s original mapmaking tradition, which started with Dufour in the middle of the 19th century. While getting lost in these rocky peaks and valleys, one feels invited into the very heart of Swiss territory – a world of such beauty that it feels like another dimension. www.spitzwerk.ch

Marie de Pimodan-Bugnon 2018-12-06 07:00:52