Helvet - Living the high life

The joys
of Les 4 Vallées

While the name of Verbier is always up in lights, its ski area is far bigger than the resort itself. The appropriately named 4 Vallées extends, in fact, from both sides of the Val de Bagnes (in the west), through the untamed Vallon d’Arbi and the Val de Nendaz, and on to the Val d’Hérémence (in the east). These four valleys are joined by a welter of peaks and summits so numerous that counting them is no easy task.From the beating heart of Verbier, the resort’s newly installed, comfortable and speedy ski lifts (82 of them at the last count) climb over the natural balconies of Savoleyres, La Croix-de-Cœur, Les Ruinettes and La Chaux, dotted on the crests of the amphitheatre formed by the resort, which faces due south, out to the Combins and Mont Blanc massifs. Panoramic is not the word. Into the bargain there is a vast range of blue and red runs for intermediate skiers to enjoy, with snow guaranteed by a battery of snow cannons should the weather fail to deliver.On the eastern side we soar up to the peaks of Les Attelas (2,727 m), Mont Gelé (3,023 m), the Col des Gentianes (2,950 m) and, up above, Mont Fort (3,330 m), the high point of the ski area and a place that affords the most stunning views of the Pennine Alps. Anything is possible from here, provided that you have the skills. The pick of the runs are the black one that shoots down from the summit and features long moguls sections, and the yellow runs (marked but not groomed), which offer a taste of freeride. And there’s a whole host of altitude bars and restaurants to meet your R&R needs.Over on the northern side, we swing our way through the forest to La Tzoumaz, a tranquil family resort with a newly installed travellator, making it ideal for beginners. Blues and reds also prevail here.Lying just to the north of MontFort, Nendaz is famed for its snow cover and proud of its “families welcome” tag, as the presence of two snow gardens, two day-care centres, a snowpark, a snow tubing park and an ice rink shows. On the opposite side of the valley stands the authentically unassuming Veysonnaz, which is home to just eight runs, among them the celebrated Piste de l’Ours, the venue of many a World Cup event.Situated on the western flank of the Val d’Hérémence, Thyon, with its three terraces ranging in altitude from 1,600 m to 2,000 m, offers copious amounts of sunshine, facilities for children (including a snow garden), a beginners-only area (with three runs), and an excellent snowpark by the name of Centralpark. Treasure hunts are also held on the blue runs.And let us not forget the smallest ski area of them all: Bruson. Getting there involves taking the Châble gondola lift down from Verbier and then climbing back up the opposite side of the Val de Bagnes. At journey’s end lie a fistful of runs (most of them red), good snow cover, and some superb semi-wild runs through the forest, for those of you who like to go off the marked track. www.4vallees.ch

Claude Hervé-Bazin 2018-12-12 07:00:24

W Verbier

You’re most likely to find W hotels in cities. Founded 20 years ago in New York, they have made their stylishly hip mark around the world and have now branched out to coastal locations and the mountains too, in Verbier to be exact, right at the foot of the slopes, in the form of four large, opulent chalets. So, why here? Because the resort and the brand share the same energy, the same trendy appeal, and the same youthful, fun-loving clientele.W for Wow. The 5-star establishment immerses its guests in a funky ambience that simply cannot be found at major hotel chains. There’s no lobby here but a living room, while guests don’t “stay” but “live” and drink to DJ beats in ultra-trendy interiors boasting a liberal sprinkling of cushions, a green stag and a pink rabbit. The wow factor also infuses its 123 rooms and suites, which offer luxurious comfort lit up by glass-encased fireplaces, not to mention walls and alcoves upholstered in bright red, translucent pendant-shaped lights, and trunk stools. W for What a vieW! Each room has a balcony looking out on to Les Grands Combins.W for Whatever Whenever, which happens to be the slogan of the concierge service. The W is a place where every wish is fulfilled. The plentiful staff are both extremely well trained and attentive to your every need. Finding employment at a W hotel is no easy task; an article in a Boston newspaper described places at Harvard as easier to come by.W for Wet. Every W hotel has its swimming pool. With its graceful curves reminiscent of turns carved in powder snow, W Verbier’s pool goes through walls, sitting as it does half inside and half outside, with huge windows separating the heat from the cold. Covering a floor area of no less than 800 m2, the adjoining AWay© Spa comprises a jacuzzi, sauna, steam room, chill-out area, and treatment rooms (La Prairie and Phyto5). On offer are massage detox packages, holistic treatments, and chromotherapy, as well as fitness facilities and a yoga and pilates room. And if you’re feeling peckish, apples are available to munch on as well as a menu featuring sweet and savoury snacks.There are also off-piste nibbles to be had at the essential Carve sushi bar and at Eat-Hola, a chic, sleek tapas bar run by Catalan star chef Sergi Arola. In the evening W Kitchen serves up delicious Swiss cuisine with a twist beneath clusters of copper-accented lights, with an illuminated bottle wall forming the backdrop. www.wverbier.com

Claude Hervé-Bazin 2018-12-27 07:00:38

Longines
Timekeeper du White Turf à St-Moritz

Nichée à 1'800 m d’altitude, la jolie ville montagnarde de Saint-Moritz, première station à s’être vue installée l’électricité en 1864, attire aussi bien les voyageurs et les sportifs que la belle bourgeoisie internationale, et ce en toute saison. Son climat atypique qui offre 322 jours ensoleillés par année lui vaut sa réputation. Mais pas uniquement. Ici, galeries d’art ultra sélect, hôtels prestigieux, restaurants gastronomiques et événements mondains accompagnés d’un gratin de stars séduisent la communauté. #helvet s’est donc rendu dans cette bourgade de luxe où il fait bon vivre pour assister au White Turf, « gazon blanc » en français, aux côtés de Longines, partenaire de l’événement. Ce concours hippique, crée en 1907, et ses courses sur le lac gelé font partie de l’histoire de la vallée de l’Engadine. Depuis plus de cent ans, chaque année au mois de février, un hippodrome géant prend forme sur le lac, avec les tribunes et un grand village de stands pour accueillir pas loin de 35'000 personnes au total au White Turf. Et ce dimanche, lors du point d’orgue de la 80ème édition du Longines Grosser Preis von St-Moritz, dix pur-sang ont pris le départ pour dérober le Grand Prix au bout de deux kilomètres de glace enneigée et emporter le pactole qui s’élevait à CHF 111’111.-, le tout sous les yeux des 13'000 spectateurs du jour. Berrahri, pur-sang irlandais de huit ans a su dépasser ses limites et celles de ses concurrents, raflant la première place avec un timing de 2’13’’, entre les mains du jockey Kieren Fox. Beauté complexeLuigi Sala, Member of the Board du White Turf, l’explique : organiser un événement sportif sur un lac gelé est complexe. Tout d’abord, les conditions climatiques changeantes peuvent impacter les courses, le lac gelé devant être en mesure de pouvoir supporter entre 2000 et 2500 tonnes (installations, chevaux, public), avec une épaisseur de glace de minimum 30 à 35 cm. Grâce à des drones et des détecteurs de chaleur, il est possible de vérifier la solidité de la glace, et de disposer des obstacles là où elle serait susceptible d’être molle, et donc dangereuse pour les chevaux et leur jockey. De plus, il faut pouvoir protéger les chevaux lors de la course en elle-même : la réverbération de la lumière ou encore les morceaux de neige gelée projetés dans les yeux peuvent être violents. Pour le jockey, pas de différence entre le gazon et la neige. « Une course est une course », déclare Raphael Lingg, jockey arrivé à la 5ème place de la course Longines Grosser Preis von St-Moritz, avec Filou, pur-sang suisse. Par contre, les chevaux le ressentent différemment. « Certains chevaux adorent courir sur la neige, et y sont très performants, alors que sur le gazon les résultats sont moins bons. Et pour d’autres, c’est totalement le contraire, la neige et la luminosité ne leur convient pas », nous apprend Luigi Sala. Alors il faut bien choisir son cheval avant de parier dessus, connaître son parcours, son palmarès ainsi que ses compétences « tout terrain ». Une Record très à chevalGarde-temps officiel de l’événement White Turf à St-Moritz, la Record de Longines saisit en son cadran l’essence-même du sport chic et de la compétition raffinée. Tel un cheval au galop, les aiguilles des secondes courent le long du chemin de fer, passant par les index en chiffres romains ainsi qu’un guichet à 3 heure qui indique la date. Accompagnée de celles des heures et minutes, ensemble, les trois aiguilles bleuies se contrastent élégamment sur le cadran en nacre blanche, inséré dans un boîtier en acier inoxydable, serti ou non selon les goûts. En son cœur bat un étalon certifié COSC, mouvement mécanique à remontage automatique qui offre une réserve de marche de 64 heures, grâce à une fréquence de 25'200 alternances par heure. Le label « CHRONOMETER » accompagne le logo de Longines sur le cadran, affirmant l’excellence horlogère de la maison de Saint-Imier. Quatre tailles de boîtier sont disponibles, à allier avec divers cadrans existants, le tout à apposer sur un bracelet en acier inoxydable ou en cuir d’alligator, noir ou brun, pour une touche plus rétro. Nouveau cheval de bataille de la marque depuis 2017, la Record a de quoi devenir emblématique, et intemporelle. www.longines.ch

Isabelle Guignet 2019-02-18 08:56:08

Chalet
Bioley

The finely crafted details of its large wooden balustrade — featuring alternating snowflake and cow’s head motifs — set the tone on arrival. This is more a statement than a fantasy, a way of infusing the chalet with the soul of its surroundings, its head high up in the snow squalls, its feet firmly planted in the grass of the meadows.It’s all here, within sight and easy reach: the village centre, the ski lifts, the eternal mountain in the background. The views are largely to the south, enjoyed fully from the covered terrace on the second floor, part of a balcony that runs generously around three sides of the chalet. It’s a perfect outpost for breakfast looking out on to the powdery snow. It’s the same again on the lower floor, home to the five bedrooms, three of which offer full-frame panoramic views. A flight of fancy is provided by the fire pit and hot tub on the balcony, which invite you to defy the chilly twilight air.Given its appearance, it is hard to believe that the Chalet Bioley has just been built. The imposing master beams, fine stone fireplace, and the deer-head chandelier all speak of tradition. The furniture also blends in seamlessly with the décor. There are no avant-garde follies here; just wicker armchairs, sofas the colour of dry earth (but very comfortable all the same), and cushions that make no attempt to be noticed. This is living done the simple way.The figures also reflect this sense of modesty, deceiving though it is. A floor area of 600 m² is relatively small for the times and the superchalet race we live in. Some of the resort’s larger offerings boast more than 1,000 m² of living space. Yet this is no flashback either: the Bioley is very much of its time, with its designer lighting, state-of-the-art Bluetooth-compatible Bose sound system, large lift, double washbasins, and boot room with ski boot warmers. Comfort guaranteed, no question!

Claude Hervé-Bazin 2018-12-10 07:00:01

La Cordée des Alpes

At La Cordée des Alpes, a member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World, it’s all about discreet luxury in inviting surroundings which cater to your well-being. The décor is discerning; contemporary interiors infused with subtle touches of nostalgia harking back to the Alps of times gone by. A pair of old, weather-worn skis lean delicately against the wall, old wooden panelling and furniture feature throughout, and the intricacy of the carved balconies is akin to lace. The cosy décor makes you instantly feel at home — but better! In the 32 bedrooms and suites, the quilts are plumped up like clouds, the pillows dreamily soft, and cosy throws yearn for you to wrap yourself up in them — an unadulterated invitation to kick back and relax. Further on, you come to a lounge area with a fireplace, a huge bathroom and a balcony offering a panoramic view of the mountains.The pursuit of well-being continues in a delicious spa (that can be privatised) in the basement. Sink into the water in the Jacuzzi or do a few gentle laps in the adjacent 15 m pool (heated to 29 °C), surrounded by high vaulted ceilings and sculpted wooden screens. Along with the steam room and a sauna, there’s a warm stone bench, a fireplace, a panoramic view and three wellness rooms where you will find Cinq Mondes and Karin Herzog Spa treatments with aromatic plants and Balinese fruit. La Cordée’s fine dining restaurant (Gault&Millau’s verdict: 14 out of 20) is a blend of urban brasserie, cosy booths, exposed beams and shuttered windows which lay claim to its Alpine identity. Working away in the open kitchen is the chef Fabrice Taulier who comes from Cannes and has worked in a number of Michelin-starred restaurants in France and Switzerland. He swears by fresh and local products.Tucked inside La Cordée des Alpes there are also 17 very high-end private apartments (ranging from 75 to 300 m²!), some of which can be hired for the day or by the week. Comprising two or three bedrooms, they can accommodate up to six guests and have access to the same services as the hotel’s rooms. They also come with the personalised services of a concierge, which can be called upon to book private ski lessons or a mountain guide for example. Ultimate luxury. www.hotelcordee.com

Claude Hervé-Bazin 2018-12-15 07:00:49

Nabucco
Penthouse

The Nabucco Penthouse, named after the Verdi opera, is a place of architectural splendor worthy of La Scala and any great Babylonian King. This luxurious space incorporates only the best of ancient Mesopotamia, while also offering modern upscale conveniences like the elevator that leads directly to the apartment entrance. The doors open to a hallway made of elegant wooden beams that reveal the heart of the space: a vast, cathedral-like living and dining room area, built around a direct view of the majestic Matterhorn. This 437 m2 space is one of Zermatt’s most exclusive. It’s the plush and perfect union of mountain tradition and contemporary comfort. The apartment’s floors and accent walls of elegant, upcycled wood contrast beautifully with the modernity of the ceiling’s exposed, white beams. The living room’s proud fireplace is double-sided, allowing those in the kitchen (where a second dining area is located) to also fully enjoy its crackling heat. Tucked into a corner of the main dining area is a charming TV nook, located below two of the bedrooms and furnished with the very latest in audiovisual technology.A spectacular stairway leads to the inviting second floor, which is dominated by the large master bedroom, its fireplace, ensuite bathroom, and balcony overlooking the Matterhorn. The two additional bedrooms, which share a bathroom, are further complimented by an open office space directly above the TV nook. All rooms boast closets and cupboards that are flush with the walls, giving the entire apartment a sleek, minimal feel that’s practical without disrupting the ethereal harmony intended by its architects.

Serge Greter 2018-12-13 07:00:48

Matterhorn

Every summer, between late June and late September, some 2,500 alpinists try to scale the Matterhorn. About 40% of them will pass via the Hörnli Ridge, the route of the first ascent and the most frequented of the four classic routes that reaches the summit. This past July 7th, an international group of 26 alpinists got up at 3:45 am and attempted tackle the Hörnligrat. They came from all corners of the globe: Switzerland and France, yes, but also Brazil, Argentina, Australia and Hungary. 600 Deaths in 153 YearsThis route features an almost-vertical wall of rock, located directly behind the cabane. Most of the climbers already notice it the night before, examining it with a glance that’s half-distracted, half-evocative. This mountain is responsible for over 600 deaths. It’s one of the deadliest mountains in the world, as a multitude of metal plaques drilled into the gneiss along the way will attest. Luckily, the majority of climbers today know it’s best to hire a guide, as trying to find the path in a maze of unstable boulders on your own is practically a lost cause (and can possibly be deadly).For our ascent, the mercury drops to – 2°C and a sea of clouds seems to separate the world below from this exceptionally icy universe; a world of its own. The Alpine procession moves forward slowly as the sun finally makes an appearance on the horizon, illuminating the thousands of glaciers that pepper the surrounding landscape. One cannot help but be humbled; the feeling of smallness is overwhelming here in the face of such immensity. No Traffic, Lots of Snow There are few volunteers for this morning’s ascent. While this does mean the usual morning traffic is not an issue (sometimes there are over 130 people trying to climb at the same time!), this morning’s progress is made difficult by abundant snow that obliges climbers to put on their crampons much earlier than usual. After almost three hours of upward trekking, roped together, the Solvay cabane finally appears. At 4,003 meters, this 20m2 shanty sits perched on the edge of a cliff, like a security guard with a watchful eye over all those who attempt to pass. Safety is of utmost concern and, as a rule of thumb, local guides will turn back with any client who cannot reach the cabane within three hours.After pausing to take in the breathtaking panorama it’s time to continue. Thick, hemp robes permeate the most difficult parts of the route (a modern day luxury that Whymper and his team were not able to enjoy when they first climbed the Matterhorn on July 14th, 1865). Permanent metal pins, drilled into the rock, provide checkpoints for rope safety along the way, relieving guides who would otherwise have to improvise or “sling a horn.” A Long and Dangerous DescentAltitude accentuates all things, fatigue being no exception. On the way up the going is slow, one’s breath is shallow and one’s muscles burn painfully. The last 150 meters require leaving the ridge and heading straight for the summit along the snowy slope of the north face. It was near here that Géraldine Fasnacht made history in 2014 for being the first to base jump in a wing suit off the Matterhorn. Just a few steps from the top, an almost-eerie statue of Saint Bernard, patron saint of alpinists, welcomes weary adventurers. Less than a minute later, one is at the summit with a magnificent 360° view, 4,478 meters above the world below. Now is the time to hug, high-five and take photos, all hands raised in victory. This is what it means to “take the path less travelled by.” Another five to six hours of descent await already-weary climbers before they arrive back where they started, 1,200 meters below. Only then can the dream of climbing the famous Matterhorn finally (and fully) come true. www.zermatt.chwww.nolimitsexperience.ch

Laurent Grabet 2019-01-03 07:00:58

The Omnia

The Omnia is perched on a natural pedestal that provides panoramic views of Zermatt and the surrounding mountains from the terrace, while one pampers oneself to the fullest (draped in faux-fur blankets, of course). Push open the doors and what do you see? It may be a lobby or it may be a library… or perhaps it’s a bit of both. Either way one thing is certain: hours can easily fly by here before the crackling fireplace. The interior decor of granite and leather, in shades of oak, taupe, grey and black, creates a sensual aesthetic where nothing was left to chance. Every material, every element, and every detail come together in an alchemy that is the very essence of the space.The Omnia’s design also reflects an authentic cultural dialogue. New York City-based architect Ali Tayar (who passed away in 2016) created the space to be a happy union between an American-style mountain lodge and a (very) classically minimalist Alpine chalet. Even if the chosen materials have their roots in Valais traditions, the interior space here is largely defined by a modern American aesthetic. Most of the interior’s furniture was specially designed by the architect for the hotel, embracing an elegantly demure style that’s reminiscent of Mies van der Rohe’s Bauhaus influence or the modular constructions of USM (a family-owned Swiss company, founded in Munisenges (BE) in 1885, whose iconic contemporary designs are still on display in New York City’s Museum of Modern Art). Like any timelessly great Swiss product, these designs are known for a quality, precision, and reliability that elegantly combines with refined materials and clean, uncluttered lines — all fundamental values that make up the Omnia identity.Numbers cannot do the space justice: 18 rooms (ranging from 24 to 45m2) and 12 suites (70-110 m2) each assume their own unique personality and disposition. Every room has a different size and layout. Some revolve around an open fireplace, while for others the star is the kitchen, the private sauna, an all-glass bathroom that faces the mountains, or a balcony that embraces the Matterhorn.The restaurant goes by the same name as the hotel and champions the local spirit of stone walls and a roaring, open fireplace, complete with its neatly-piled wood reserves always within arm’s reach. The restaurant’s French-trained chef, Hauke Pohl, is known for his contemporary cuisine that features both regional and cosmopolitan accents, along with seasonally-inspired menus.And where does one even begin when it comes to wellness? The Finnish sauna, Turkish baths, and the caldarium all represent the best of the world’s wellness options present at the Omnia. The long pool seems to spill out onto the mountains, overlooking the panoramic terrace through immense windows that also shelter a secret... anyone looking for fresh air needs only dive beneath the divider to find themselves surrounded by the mountains with the Matterhorn as company for a dip in the Jacuzzi. www.the-omnia.com

Valérie Perren 2019-01-17 07:00:22

The closely guarded secrets
of the Bagnes Valley raclette

A raclette is never a run-of-the-mill affair. It’s not something to be wolfed down quickly when you’re on the go, or thrown together for a make-do weekday supper. A raclette is always an occasion, an eagerly anticipated get-together that holds the promise of an enjoyable evening savouring a delicious Valais spread of dried meats (Hérens, obviously), cured ham and bacon, garlic or pepper flavoured dried sausage, potatoes, and the obligatory side dish of gherkins and pickled onions.But what exactly is raclette, you may ask. Well, it’s a full-fat cheese (50%) with a semi-hard rind, which is traditionally made in the Alpine pastures during the summer, or at dairies in the valley between October-November and May-June (depending on the altitude of the summer pastures). Old documents show that Bagnes’ raclette cheese had already earned itself a reputation by the late Middle Ages.Cheeses can only lay claim to the Appellation d’Origine Protégée classification which guarantees their bold character by following rigorous procedures throughout the production process: raw milk must be collected in an environmentally-friendly way (50 litres for a 7-kilo cheese wheel), transformed by an artisan cheese maker in copper vats and matured on redwood planks at 11°C for at least three months (and regularly turned), and only stored in Valais, not to mention routine quality controls. That’s what it takes to obtain one of the best melting cheeses in the world - creamy and flavoursome, floral and tangy in equal measure. Each dairy has its own number, which is stamped onto the cheese wheels; Bagnes 1 comes from Verbier, Bagnes 25 from Champsec, and Bagnes 30 from Lourtier…Raclette cheese has its own equivalent of the Oscars: the annual Fromage et Cime tasting competition which is held in mid-September in Ovronnaz, in the nearby Rhone Valley. The most acclaimed winners (three times) include the particularly fervent cheese maker Carlos da Fonseca, a “Portuguese mountain dweller” as he describes himself, who runs the Lourtier dairy in the low season and spends the summer out on the pastures in Charmotane. He is passionate about his work – he owns Hérens cattle himself – and learnt the ropes from old Bagnes locals. The cheese competition takes place during La Désalpe when cattle are moved back down to the plains, and coincides with another event organised by Bagnes Agritourisme, the Bagnes Capital of Raclette festival which features cow fighting, a folk parade and, of course, tasting sessions. www.bagnesraclette.chwww.fromagesuisse.ch

Daniel Bauchervez 2019-01-31 07:00:53

The Glacier Express

It’s “the slowest express train in the world” according to its slogan, a cherished fact among riders. The journey goes through the local valleys in a series of wide banking turns, climbing the valley walls amid great pine trees, continuing up the hillsides through the Alpine pastures, plunging into the valley’s gorges, and crossing icy glacial waters via a series of small, sleepy villages (many of which seem frozen in time). The route includes 91 tunnels and 291 bridges of all sizes (averaging one bridge per kilometer). There’s no doubt about it: the Glacier Express is not your average commuter train.St. Moritz, 9:15 am. The train station faces the steel-blue St. Moritz Lake, which spreads out along the base of the Upper Engadin mountains. To the right, the larch forests and the naked summit of Muottas Muragl (2,453 meters) complete the panoramic view of the station through the train’s large bay windows. The train moves slowly forward, out of the Inn River’s valley and into the Albula River’s valley. This leg of the journey takes riders across 55 bridges, through 39 tunnels (some which spiral around themselves) and up a slope of 7°, a true tribute to the Golden Era of train travel. Further along, past Filisur, the steep cliffs eventually give way to reveal Landwasser and its railway viaduct, which carries travelers across the water over six arch spans that are 65 meters high. The viaduct is a signature structure that helped classify the Albula Railway (which operates the Glacier Express) as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.The rest of the journey is no less exceptional. The train winds through northern Grisons through Ruinaulta, known for its white cliffs that shoot 350 meters up into the air and which give the area its (appropriate) nickname: the “Grand Canyon” of Switzerland. Only the train, hikers and bikers can pass through here, before reaching the Oberlap Pass at 2,033 meters, the highest point on this railway journey. The passage feels almost airy, then one hits Andermatt, the Furka Base Tunnel, and then the Goms region (where many Eastern Valais specialties hail from), before coming up under the Great Aletsch Glacier that clings to mountains above.In Visp, the Glacier Express branches one last time, leaving the Rhône Valley as it makes its gentle ascent towards Zermatt. From a distance, the valley’s straight “V” shape is hidden behind snow-covered mountain tops. But no matter how hard one looks, the elusive Matterhorn will remain out of view until one has actually arrived in the station and exited the train.To take full advantage of the itinerary, one can split it into a two-day journey (with an overnight in Andermatt) aboard the Glacier Pullman Express. This adventure is almost like traveling through time, as one rides in authentic vintage Pullman wagons (pulled by an actual Crocodile locomotive) that date from the 1930s, complete with a piano bar and a vintage restaurant car with large, gold embossed booths… very à la Orient Express. www.glacierexpress.ch/enwww.rhb.ch/en/world-of-railway...

Daniel Bauchervez 2018-12-16 07:00:40