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Helvet.swiss - Le Haut Val de Bagnes, sous l’œil des chamois

Le Haut Val de Bagnes,
where mountain goats look down from on high

A summer day dawns, with the cool of the night gently giving way to the heat of the sun. Rolling down from steep slopes and still immersed in deep shadow, the open expanse of the Val de Bagnes has the look of an impenetrable no man’s land. Before long, however, the first rays of sunlight appear from the distant east, from behind mountainous barriers, warming the peaks and revealing walls of lichen-covered rock. High up on an overhanging cliff can be seen a chamois, the figure of which stands out sharply against a brilliant blue backdrop. Created in 1968 and covering an area of 150 km2, this nature reserve is often overlooked by holidaymakers transfixed by the panoramic views offered by Verbier, not least of Mont-Fort. Here, however, lies an authentic, tranquil land of timeless mountains, where chamois mingle with ibex (reintroduced in 1926) and marmots. Le Sentier des Chamois Etched into the valley’s high northern slopes, the Sentier des Chamois links La Chaux (served by a gondola lift) to the delightful village of Fionnay. Stretching for 13 kilometres and taking between five and six hours to complete, it is not so much a bracing walk as a hike in the true sense of the word, one that winds its way between two imposing mountain ranges: the Mont-Fort, rising high above, and the Combins, which lie opposite. The first section of the path runs down to the Le Mintset by the old irrigation canal, before climbing back up through Crêta d’Inyé and La Perraire. It’s not too strenuous and all you have to do is follow the white/red/white markers. There are some, however, who prefer to start by branching off to the Cabane du Mont-Fort (2,457 m) and the Patiefray marsh. This mountain hut, with its imposing walls of rough-hewn stone, is the perfect spot for enjoying a mid-morning rest and, in the early summer months, watching tufts of cotton grass dancing in the gentle moist breeze. There is a high risk of falling rocks on the trail back to the main path, however, for which reason it is now staked out with blue markers. Before long, another sparkling obstacle hoves into view: the northern slope of the Grand Combin, lined with blocks of ice that have broken away from the Corbassière glacier and thick patches of powdery snow, all of which means you have to look where you put your feet. The path runs through grassy slopes and steep scree, inevitably slowing down progress, before rising on the long climb up to the Col de Termin (2,648 m), where the landscape becomes increasingly rocky and silence reigns supreme, broken only by the clacking of stones sent careering down the slopes by unsuspecting ibex. While it is not hazardous, the climb to the top is breathtakingly steep, with chains provided to help walkers negotiate two elevated sections. Right at the foot lies a broad expanse of emerald green, at the bottom of a rocky valley, an oasis known as the Lac de Louvie (2,250 m), which is overlooked by the sunlit terrace of the hut nearby. It’s an ideal stopover for the night, eyes fixed on the Grand Combin. From here there are two hours of strain for the knees to endure on the steep final descent to Fionnay (1,489 m). guidesverbier.com louvie.ch

Claude HERVE-BAZIN 2021-07-08 13:00:52

Zermatt

The latest edition of the Gault&Millau restaurant guide counts 870 Swiss restaurants recognized for their exceptional know-how, 96 of which are new to this edition. This marks a new record for the country, in terms of the sheer number of restaurants that were tested and approved by the demanding critics who compile this global gastronomic reference guide. Created in the 1970s, this guide came to life in the wave of nouvelle cuisine brought about by Paul Bocuse, the Troisgros Brothers, and Michel Guérard among others. These 870 Swiss establishments have been recognized for the quality of their ingredients, the attention to detail given when preparing them, and the ingenuity of the chefs. Zermatt performed particularly well. No fewer than 17 restaurants were selected, earning a cumulative 242 points, the same amount as last year. That number is 29 times higher than the Swiss average, in terms of the number of Michelin-starred restaurants per inhabitant. Although the cumulative score is the same, there were a few small changes: one restaurant no longer qualified, but another took its place; another restaurant lost a point, while two others earned an extra point and qualified in the top ranks. The Masters’ KitchensAt the very highest level, two chefs from each restaurant share the major accolades: Master Chef Ivo Adam from After Seven, the Backstage Hotel’s restaurant (along with Head Chef Florian Neubauer), and Salvatore Elefante from the Mont Cervin Palace’s Ristorante Capri (along with Head Chef Giovanni Bavuso). Together, these two establishments won 17 points on their own and have two and one Michelin stars, respectively. After Seven has many surprises in store, both in terms of the kitchen’s creativity and in terms of the establishment’s décor: from behind a full facade of windows, the restaurant evokes the atmosphere of a New York-style loft that’s been improved upon by Zermatt artist Hans Julen. Here everything feels visually-baroque and quirky, down to the table service, which is highly thorough yet fresh (and never stilted). The menu is unique in of itself: dishes are chosen by the number of plates and the time one wishes to be seated at the table. Eating at After Seven truly transforms a simple meal into an unforgettable experience, including bread that’s baked directly at the table, and lollipops created by the patrons themselves. The restaurant is open from December 7, 2019 to April 12, 2020. At the Mont Cervin Palace, the Ristorante Capri —where Head Chef Giovanni Bavuso brings his cuisine from the award-winning restaurant Il Riccio on Capri here to the mountains for the winter— is also only open for the season, from December 18, 2019 until March 29, 2020. Here, the cooking has a view of the Alps but is 100% Mediterranean, with strong marine influences. Some highlights from the menu? The yellowtail tartar trilogy and the house-made tagliolini with lemon, burrata, raw gambas, and sea asparagus. This fine establishment offers a chance to truly enjoy the full spectrum of Mare Nostrum delights. Reaching New HeightsThis year, there were also two establishments that earned an additional point from Gault&Millau. This included Alpine Gourmet Prato Borni (16 points), located inside the Grand Hotel Zermatterhof, which is open in both winter (December 7, 2019-April 13, 2020) and summer (July 4-September 13, 2020). Executive Chef Heinz Rufibach has made it his mission to highlight and serve the best local products from Switzerland, with a special focus on Valais. Past menu items have included an amuse-bouche lobster and hay shot, mountain venison, an abundance of valley root vegetables, and a surprising selection of sweet wines. The Omnia, the signature restaurant inside the hotel of the same name, also improved their score from last year for a total of 15 points. Executive Chef Hauke Pohl, trained in the French culinary tradition, has created a menu that’s as contemporary as the hotel’s décor, with a balanced blend of regional and cosmopolitan influences, and ultimately defined by seasonal ingredients. It is also worth noting that Gault&Millau gave 14 points to three of Zermatt’s most legendary Alpine chalet dining establishments: Zum See, Chez Vrony, and Findlerhof… three more reasons to wine and dine in Zermatt this winter season. www.gaultmillau.chwww.backstagehotel.chwww.zermatterhof.chwww.the-omnia.comwww.montcervinpalace.chwww.zermatt.ch

Claude Hervé-Bazin 2021-07-08 12:35:46

Sébastien Albert
and an Alpine love affair

“Trop beau” (too beautiful). Those were the words Sébastien Albert uttered on first arriving in Verbier back in 1998, words he would repeat time and again as he discovered the wonders of the surrounding countryside. So often did they pass the Canadian photographer’s lips that he decided to name his little company after them. And so, Tro Bō Photo was born. For someone who grew up amid the “little hills” of Outaouais in western Quebec, the contrast in landscapes was striking. “I fell in love with Valais straightaway and with the cosmopolitan feel of Verbier. It’s an amazing cultural crossroads,” says the 39-year-old. Over the years he has forged friendships and laid down roots in the region, where he intends to stay forever, having made his home in Chemin-Dessus, in the commune of Vollèges. Friendship was the reason why Albert came to Verbier in the first place, as he explained: “My friends and I wanted to go snowboarding in Europe. We were recommended a few nice resorts and my pal Yves Garneau, who’s also a photographer, came to Verbier to check things out. He broke his back two months later, so I decided to come out and give him a hand.” It was then that his new life began, one shaped by the peaks and valleys that he would soon begin to capture on film. Recording stunning scenes on scenic walks, the self-taught photographer began to make a name for himself, so much so that in 2004, his passion became a profession, the Canadian giving up his career as a custom ski boot maker and swapping the snowboard for cross-country skis. His love for the mountains has remained intact ever since, a love he conveys by organising courses and workshops in nature photography. Next winter will see him open a store in Verbier by the name of Photo Verbier, where his images will be on display and on sale. “Mountainous landscapes change from one season to the next and from one altitude to the next,” says Albert. “Whenever you go up or down, the perspectives always change. Nothing ever stays the same. I feel at ease in this Alpine world. It inspires me.” La Pierre Avoi, one of his first summertime haunts in the region, continues to exert a magnetic hold over him, as does the Haut du Val de Bagnes, which he calls “a wild place, home to outstanding flora and fauna”. It is here that he regularly goes in search of perfect light, plays with depth and cloud and nurtures his burgeoning interest in macrophotography, the little details that make all the difference. And all the while, he utters those same words over and over, telling himself that it is all “too beautiful.” trobophoto.com

Serge Greter 2021-07-08 12:09:35

Helvet.swiss - Zermatt Green-tinted Glasses

Zermatt’s Green-tinted Glasses

In the 1970s, when the rest of the world was fully focused on the growth of the automobile, Zermatt decided to focus on electric cars, a choice sceptics were quick to denounce. But for the station, the choice was largely tied to the goal of ensuring tourism would thrive, while limiting the potential negative impacts of the industry on this beautiful, narrow valley. The Zermattmobile When authorities realized there were not many electric car options on the market, they decided to invest in local design and invention. Almost half a century later, Reinhold Julen (at Jumbo Garage) and his colleagues Stefan and Bruno Imboden are responsible for the production of these vehicles, developed in conjunction with their work as mechanics. It was an enormous challenge to develop vehicles like a small pickup truck with a tipping trailer, or a fuel transporter, that would meet both the technical and legal requirements outlined by the village. It was also expensive: the vehicles produced in Zermatt cost between 65,000 and 120,000 francs, not including the batteries. Built out of aluminium, they are incredibly rust-resistant and have an impressive life span of 30 to 40 years. Their designs were almost exported to New York City as a potential replacement for the city’s existing fleet of 12,000 taxis, but the project was eventually abandoned because the Zermatt vehicles don’t reach high enough speeds. They’re limited to 20 km/hour maximum, the perfect speed for navigating Zermatt’s small village streets, but unfortunately not fast enough for America’s megalopolis “city that never sleeps.” Today, some 500 perfectly silent electric vehicles are allowed to circulate in the ski station, 40 of which are taxis. All other vehicles must be parked in Täsch and riders must take the 12-minute train to Zermatt which runs three times an hour. From the train station, visitors must walk to their accommodation, take a bus, an electric taxi, or (if they’re lucky) climb aboard one of the Grand Hotel Zermatterhof’s two horse-drawn carriages. Horses and recycled plastic Article three of the commune’s bylaws explicitly states that pedestrians always have the right of way in Zermatt. Even the latest modifications, agreed upon in September 2019 between the commune and the local transportation company Alpin Cargo, state that in the afternoons, any package deliveries on Bahnhofstrasse can only be delivered by stagecoach. But vehicles are not the only point of concern for local authorities. 100% of wastewater is collected and treated, trash is collected and recycled, and the use of hydropower is encouraged (currently 60% of the station’s energy is hydropower-derived). Eager to set the example, the commune recently adopted a new paving mix that includes recycled plastic. A first in Switzerland, although others are likely to follow suit as this new, more flexible asphalt blend is highly resistant to the extreme temperature fluctuations that take place between winter and summer. In Zermatt, just about everyone is onboard with the commune’s green initiatives. Numerous hotels have undergone eco-conscious renovations (including the local youth hostel), which, slowly but surely, are making a difference. The Zermatt Marathon has made a public commitment to sustainable development and the village also hosts the annual Zermatt Summit, which welcomes around 150 business leaders who have openly committed to promoting global business models that meet our world’s ecologically-conscious demands. A sustainability test for Zermatt’s ski domain It’s not easy to develop a sustainable ski area. And yet in Zermatt, such plans have long been underway: a dedicated working group has been tackling the challenge since its founding by the Zermatt lift operating company (Bergbahnen) in 2002. One of the first large-scale projects, finished in 2009, was to certify the Matterhorn glacial paradise’s restaurant as Minergie-P. This goal ensured construction was done in a way that would significantly reduce the building’s energy consumption. The building has since won Swiss and European awards for its solar panels, which provide enough energy to meet 100% of the building’s energy needs. The building even houses its own microbiological sewage-treatment plant, allowing wastewater treatment directly onsite. These achievements are all the more impressive when one takes the building’s 3,883 m altitude into consideration- it’s a true model of its kind. A second solar installation was commissioned in Trockener Steg in 2010. And more recently, this base station for the new T3 cable car (which takes passengers to the Matterhorn glacier paradise) was outfitted with 877 m2 of solar panels that generate 157,200 KWh each year. All this despite the difficult meteorological conditions of the winter months, which present numerous technical challenges. The Swiss Alpine Club faced similar challenges when they committed to two flagship projects over the course of a decade: the complete renovation of the Monte Rosa alpine hut (2,883 m), the first mountain refuge to be labelled Minergie-P in 2009, followed by the Hörnli mountain hut (3,260 m) at the base of the Matterhorn in 2015. Project guidelines included eliminating the use of diesel, integrating solar energy, and treating and reusing wastewater. Managing Zermatt’s ski domain, which is energy intensive by definition, is more problematic. Each year, the Zermatt lift operating company’s 68 vehicles and engines consume 1 million litres of diesel fuel. To minimize their impact, the company has started using “eco speed” fuel, which is more expensive but which reduces fine particle emissions by 13% and carbon monoxide emissions by 11%. Infrastructure cables, which have to be regularly changed, are upcycled for bridge construction in Asia. Any defunct infrastructure is carefully dismantled and the impacted area is ecologically restored. Additionally, local authorities have designated six of the ten local forests as protected sites, creating “quiet zones” (with an exception for freeriders, of course) so that flora and fauna can thrive. Here going green is not revolutionary. Zermatt’s green policy is one of small steps, which when taken day by day, contribute to change on massive levels and shape a future that’s highly-conscious of the environmental issues at stake. www.zermatt.ch/en/sustainability

Daniel Bauchervez 2021-07-08 07:00:07

Zermatt’s Lifts

As one of Europe’s highest ski stations, Zermatt is inherently more protected from the effects of global warming and any lack of seasonal snow (even though 80% of the ski area, excluding the glaciers, have a built-in backup system for artificial snow). And yet Bergbahnen Zermatt has voluntarily adopted environmental protections and policies dating as far back as 2002, which revolve around three primary pillars: an efficient use of resources, a global approach to energy, and constant renaturation.Regular upgrades and investments have ensured the station stayed abreast of the latest and most efficient technical infrastructure. Every aspect of daily life has been taken into consideration, from transportation to snow cannons, construction, restoration, the acquisition and maintenance of vehicles… all of it is designed to reduce energy consumption and embody a way of life that is as eco-friendly as possible. One example is the station’s 68 engines, which are more expensive to operate but which pollute 11-13% less than traditional models. To meet their high-energy needs, Bergbahnen Zermatt relies heavily on local hydroelectricity and has made significant investments in solar energy, which heats and powers the Matterhorn glacier paradise restaurant (which is certified Minergie-P), the Trockener Steg station, and, most recently, the Matterhorn glacier ride lift. These achievements are all the more impressive when one takes into account the fact that the restaurant is perched at a dizzying 3,883 m - it even has its own microbiological treatment plant, which filters wastewater directly onsite; a veritable achievement in its own right!And when it comes to maintaining and restoring the natural environment, the renaturation pillar of their efforts covers any area of the ski domain that may be impacted by construction. A detailed inventory was compiled and efforts are underway to revegetate older sections of the ski area which may have been damaged or polluted. Today, over 85% of them have already undergone some form of ecological restoration, while outdated infrastructure is carefully dismantled, and lift cables are continuously being upcycled for bridge construction in Asia. All of these efforts combined led to Zermatt Bergbahnen being awarded the well-deserved 2015 Swiss Revegetation Award, something all of us can recognize as a great achievement towards a sustainable future. matterhornparadise.ch

Sophie de Charbevel 2021-02-11 08:00:12

Steiger & Cie

In the early 2000s, high-end luxury real estate development in Switzerland’s mountains had just begun to erupt, with a lust for large, open floor plans and upcycled patina wood. Steiger & Cie accompanied the movement and was sometimes ahead of times when building a powerfully interconnected company ecosystem to meet every single one of their clients’ needs, both during and after real estate pruchases. Brokering, development, management, coordination with architects and construction teams, even legal guidance, their range of services covers the whole spectrum, making them the perfect go-to for expert advice about current market trends. A renewed love for the mountainsThe entire world froze this spring with the arrival of the Covid pandemic. Few specialists dared to bet, at first, whether the real estate market would slip, sink, or maintain pace. Very few companies, even amongst the best, were able to anticipate what would happen just a few weeks later: demand held steady. More so, demand grew and has continued to grow ever since.Some people wanted to flee an unpleasant lockdown in the city. Some with busy lives simply found themselves (finally) with enough time to think about what matters most to them. Concepts of family and a happy home took on a whole new importance. Many people didn’t have access to an outdoor space or garden. As Swiss federal authorities sought to balance health safety with the (relative) preservation of freedom, the summer months saw numerous foreigners finally take the leap. Some started by booking apartment or chalet rentals for a month or even for the whole winter season, regardless of cost. Epidemiologists were predicting multiple waves of outbreaks; they had to act quickly.In Zermatt, Oliver Herweg witnessed a 30% increase in demand. Prospective clients had to be more committed than ever, carrying out visits with masks on and hands freshly disinfected, and tended to decide (and buy) more quickly than usual. Swiss clients also flocked to the mountains in large numbers over the summer months. And although the Zermatt market is hyper selective with few properties on offer, real estate sales in Verbier and Crans-Montana exploded - in Crans-Montana especially, where prices are lower and options more plentiful. A changing paradigmThe global health crisis has been a catalyst that has helped reinforce Switzerland’s reputation for high quality of life and secure property investments. Whether buying or investing in developing properties, privacy is more than ever the key word here — Steiger & Cie’s focus from the start. Giant open floor plans, spas and personal elevators have never made more sense for those who can afford it. The desire to upgrade to larger spaces is on trend, as are rising prices.Other factors surely played a role. The ecological crisis has shamed most everyone’s weekend plans to visit Barcelona or Moscow — too much CO2 spewed in too little time. And while low altitude cities were sweltering in the rising heat over the last couple of summers, the mountains kept their cool… Second residencies at higher altitudes never made so much sense.Second homes for some, but many people are looking to make a permanent move. The Lex Weber restricts construction of new second homes in communes where more than 20% of properties are already being used as holiday homes. So, as remote work continues to expand and telecommunication options improve, many people are asking themselves whether it wouldn’t make more sense to move to a place where they can spend time outdoors and send their children to smaller safer schools, with the slopes just around the corner. One could venture to say a new postmodern world is taking shape here. A world with no more rural flights that, once again, places high value on small communities and being close to nature. steigercie.ch

Claude Hervé-Bazin 2021-02-04 08:00:36

A ski touring appetizer

Have you ever dreamt of reaching 4,000 m in your touring skis? Are you lacking the physical training and technical skills of a true alpinist? Do you have no prior experience in the high mountains? Are you trying to keep an eye on your budget? Not a problem! The Breithorn (4,164 m) has you covered. All you need to know is how to ski correctly in the mountains. Moderate effort, incredible landscapesThe Breithorn may be one of the most accessible 4,000 m peaks in the Alps, but that doesn’t make it any less stunning. On the border of the Italian Aosta Valley, this welcoming " broad horn" offers 2 km of gentle ridges, draped in snow and ice. Accompanied by a mountain guide, the ascent can be completed in half a day, starting at the Matterhorn glacier paradise cable car station (3,883 m) and back. The upwards itinerary requires 1h30-2h30 of moderate effort across a snow-covered expanse, followed by a gradual ascent until you reach the highest snow-capped ridge, where the uninitiated may experience some light vertigo. There, an exceptional panoramic view awaits: when the clouds part, you can see over three dozen 4,000 m peaks, including the intimidating Dufourspitze (4,634 m) nearby, the highest summit in Switzerland. It’s enough to make you catch the mountaineering bug and want to join the Swiss Alpine Club! "We simply cannot comprehend the power of the mountains," claimed Hawaiian surfing legend Kai Lenny, when he spoke with helvet after visiting the Breithorn with one of his sponsors in 2017. "It’s so much bigger than us that it makes us insignificant…" A descent worth savouringThe itinerary can be done in a loop or by going from point A to point B and back. Either way, a delightful powder descent awaits, rewarding the effort it took to get to the top. Make sure to enforce a few stops to draw out the experience and allow yourself to savour the view. Stops you’ll likely need to take anyway, as the snow’s conditions and the high altitude take a toll on your muscles and your oxygen levels, all while filling your heart with glee. The best part? The experience only costs 115 CHF per person for a 6-person group with one guide, in addition to the 59 CHF lift fee. Money well spent for such an exceptional experience. zermatters.chalpincenter-zermatt.ch

Laurent Grabet 2021-01-28 07:00:04

Verbier International School

All Swiss private international schools capitalize on the country’s reputation for being serene and safe, and all seem to share a common belief that high-quality education is the first step towards creating a better world — a world without borders, in stark contrast to currently rising demagogic and populist trends around the globe. Teaching global perspectivesThe mission of Verbier International School is ambitious, with an education that aims to go "beyond the curriculum" to shape students into principled critical thinkers and socially conscious global citizens. What exactly does that mean? "Going beyond simple knowledge to develop attitudes and skills that will help them throughout their whole lives" asserts the school’s Headmaster, Thibault Descoeudres. And how does a school do that? " Through the satisfaction of a job well done. Through sport. Through diversity (20-some nationalities are represented in the student body). And by proposing activities that include the arts, debates, and conferences. We teach students how to think by and for themselves and express their opinions, all while taking into account fellow pupils’ feelings and ideas." In short, the school aims to prepare the next generation for a future driven by open exchange and multilateralism. The added value of sportThibault Descoeudres is an avid sports fan who’s a highly-experienced skier, mountain biker and paraglider. "Competitive sports taught me a lot of things: hard work, resilience, how to lose, how to pick yourself back up… I try to pass that on to our students," he explains. All of the school’s student families and collaborators share those values. And the school’s location in the Val de Bagnes makes it the perfect playing field for that kind of education. No less than a dozen physical activities are on offer for students, including the excellent sports training offered by the Ski Academy and the Freeride Academy. " These programs are open to any child who wants to practice their sport while also getting a high-quality education. Selection criteria are not solely based on athletic ability," specifies the Headmaster. Training sessions are held two to four times a week, alternating between Zermatt (in fall) and Verbier (during the ski season). Art etc.In addition to its gorgeous mountains, Verbier boasts an exceptional cultural offering. In the context of the Verbier Festival, and in collaboration with violinist Justin Lamy, music and arts education are also central pillars in the school’s curriculum. Vocal training, pottery, painting, sculpture, photography, and theatre are all part of schooling here, in addition to partnerships with the Verbier 3-D Foundation’s sculpture park and its artists in residence. Professors also arrange activities and training programs that range from cooking classes with a renowned chef to field trips to Geneva’s CERN’s large particle accelerator. The student body’s diversity and rich family histories also play a role. And at the end of the day, at Verbier International School, it all comes down to one thing: the kids love going to school here! verbierinternationalschool.ch

Claude Hervé-Bazin 2021-01-21 08:00:27

The Best High-Altitude Dining

The comforting warmth of a historic chaletThose looking for a touch of nostalgia will find it deep in the Alps, near Findeln, Riffelalp, and Furi (1,867 m). Some make the journey by foot (45-60 min), while others take the Matterhorn Express, floating gently over the frozen white forests and alpine pastures. Here, in the heart of the Mattertal Valley, lies Zermatt: the crossroads of the region’s mechanical ski lifts and many exceptional dining tables. There’s the Silvana Hotel’s cosy Gitz-Gädi, where diners are delighted with rösti, fondue, charcuterie, lamb, or even goat in the company of a rustic fireplace. There’s also Simi, where another fireplace welcomes diners for expertly blended traditional and contemporary cuisine that’s accompanied by impeccable service. Or even Les Marmottes, where one can savour beef from Valais (with a pine mousse) or ibex ravioli (hunted by the owner himself!). And don’t forget Aroleid Kollektiv, sustainably run by a young couple known for their creative cuisine (with vegetarian and vegan options), along with their pottery and barista classes. hotelsilvana.chrestaurantsimi.chles-marmottes.charoleid-kollektiv.ch One of the main routes connecting Furi and Zermatt passes through the small hamlets of Blatten and Zum See, which are each home to a renowned restaurant. The picturesque Zum See, with its aged patina exterior and magnificent terrace (complete with a view of the Matterhorn), was awarded 14 points by Gault&Millau for its high-quality, hyper-local cuisine, which expertly blends mountain classics and fine dining with dishes like veal-liver and homemade pasta, or rösti with smoked salmon on Sundays. Meanwhile, the Blatten is family-owned-and-operated by Leander and Simone Taugwalder. And if " Taugwalder" rings a bell, it’s because Peter Taugwalder was the first to summit the Matterhorn in 1869, and, oddly enough, this establishment’s owner-couple met while climbing that very same mountain! The menu here could not be more traditional with one surprising speciality: Porcini mushroom soup, served with a delicate, puff pastry crust. In winter, there’s fondu every Wednesday and a snow bar that opens in February. zumsee.chzumsee.chblatten-zermatt.ch Near the Moos-Trail, Alm specializes in homegrown trout (grilled, with almonds, poached, in salad, etc.), and ten minutes on foot from Riffelalp, is the 100% stress-free Ritti, with its heavy flagstone roof and micro-terrace hidden amongst the trees. Menu highlights include rösti and an exceptional fondue. alm-zermatt.chritti.ch On the other side of the Zmuttbach River, away from the lifts, lies the traditional snow-covered village of Z’mutt. Here one can find the modest Jäger Stube, which serves robust, hyper-local meals. Walk another 30 minutes to find Stafelalp (2,200 m), known for its large and modern sun-filled dining room (entirely rebuilt after a fire) and its beautiful terrace with impressively close (the closest you can get!) views of the Matterhorn. Although it’s in one of the region’s most isolated ski areas, it can be easily reached on the #52 red slope. From there, the Hirli chairlift quickly gets you to the Schwarzee (2,583 m) hotel-restaurant, which more than guarantees exceptional views. matthiol.chschwarzsee-zermatt.ch Charming alpine chalets can also be found near Findeln along the #5 blue route. This former mayen is now one of the station’s most renowned gourmet destinations, with two must-see restaurants that were both awarded 14 points by Gault&Millau. Chez Vrony, perhaps the most famous of the two, shines a spotlight on creative and often organic products from Valais (like their homemade charcuterie). Their chill-chic ambiance features fur-covered lounge chairs on the terrace and an interior designed by Zermatt architect and artist Heinz Julen. There’s also Findlerhof, which famously flies an iconic Swiss flag over its gigantic, panoramic terrace. It’s known for its offbeat spirit, the warm welcome provided by its owners Franz and Heidi, its truffle ravioli, its quiche, and its gargantuan Matterhorn rösti dish. Those arriving on skis must first drop their gear at the small, white chapel, then descend by foot.Three other high-altitude restaurants deserve a visit: Adler Hitta (very "chill and grill," with occasional live music, and a summer jacuzzi), Enzian, and Paradise (recently acquired by Vrony). chezvrony.chfindlerhof.chadler-hitta.chparadisezermatt.ch What about Riffelalp? There, set your sights on the Italian restaurnat Al Bosco, found inside the panoramic (and very chic) 5-star Riffelalp Resort (2,222 m). Its extra-large terrace is usually frequented by skiers tackling the Riffelberg red ski run. Slippers for inside the resort are provided. riffelalp.com What about the Italian side?Here, it’s difficult to escape the espresso break… assuming you have your travel documents (and a few Euros) in your pocket. Just after crossing the ridge, the Aosta Valley-style fondu, ravioli, risotto, ossobuco, polenta, and, of course, tiramisu, from Bontadini beckons. Surrounded by sweeping, panoramic terraces at 3,100 m, at the foot of the southern face of the Matterhorn and the Furggen ridge, this locanda-style restaurant also has a high-quality self-service area. A bit lower (2,750 m), above Plan Maison, lies the almost legendary Chalet Étoile, which has been run since 1974 by Swedish chef Ulla Frassi and her Italian husband Cesare. The menu is an Italian-Swedish fusion of farmer’s market ingredients that’s simultaneously elegant, surprising, and delicious. chaletetoile.itchaletetoile.it As close to the summit as possibleAt even higher altitudes, the ZBAG lifts provide access to every station and stopover where one can eat. One of the best stops at Rothorn (3,103 m) is the wooden Ristorante Pizzeria, which boasts incredible Alpine views. At the Blauherd station (3,103 m), the Blue Lounge is known for its flammkuchen (an Alsatian tarte flambée), but one should consider continuing on to Fluhalp (2,620 m), a sturdy and welcoming mountain hut built in 1930s, which can be reached from the red Rotweng or from Rothorn. The menu includes memorable Valais dishes like pasta and mouth-watering homemade tartes, which are sure to bring a smile to your face as you soak in the ambiance and the seasonal live music. rothornpizzeria.chfluhalp-zermatt.ch If you go even higher, taking the Trockener Steg cableway and the Furggsattel chairlift, you reach Gandegghütte. At 3,030 m, and with one of the most beautiful views of the Alps, this ex-mountain hut was transformed into a restaurant-bar overlooking the Théodule glacier. Every year (almost), it welcomes the world’s highest altitude music festival: Unplugged. Gandegghütte’s local specialities are known for refreshing weary travellers, and best of all, you can even stay the night and be the first on the slopes the next morning.Now, if that’s still too close to earth for you, continue on until you reach Klein Matterhorn and have breakfast at Matterhorn glacier paradise (3,883 m)- it’s truly a special treat to dine at the highest altitude restaurant in Europe! gandegg-huette.netmatterhornparadise.ch

Claude Hervé-Bazin 2021-01-14 08:00:34

Zermatt

Tell us: how was 2020 for Zermatt Bergbahnen?Until the lockdown happened, Zermatt was on track to set a record-breaking season. The sudden and total closure of all of our lifts on March 14 forced us to reorganize and divide our teams into two alternating groups to respect anti-Covid measures. That’s how we were able to continue maintaining the installations and reopen safely on June 7, with a focus on our Swiss customers. At the same time, the unwavering support from our financial partners allowed us to safeguard our investments and continue to advance the new projects that were already underway. Tell us about those new projects…The Kumme gondola, which is set to be operational on December 20, will be the first fully automated installation of its kind in Switzerland. It will connect Tufternkehr to Unterrothorn in two sections, and it includes a snow system that goes all the way to the base of the slopes, which is a boost for the whole sector. Then there’s the Matterhorn Glacier Ride II, which, as of summer 2022, will connect the Klein Matterhorn (CH) to Testa Grigia (Italy). It’s part of the Alpine X Crossing, which will allow visitors to travel entirely above the Alps from Zermatt to Cervinia, with various stops along the way. This connection – the highest on the massif – will help encourage significant seasonal tourism, particularly from abroad. Today, 25% of our revenues are generated in the summer, but we expect that to rise to 30% in the next three to four years. Have daily operations radically changed?Not as much as you would think, even though we’ve had to adapt continuously day after day. In any confined space, both employees and visitors are wearing masks now. Protocol for cleaning and disinfecting has also been implemented for all the common areas, including the lifts. Any thoughts on what’s to come?This year has been very particular and full of uncertainty. However, we are still optimistic and remain convinced that tourism will recover in the future, and that this health crisis will pass. This winter, pending any new restrictions that are beyond our control, the Zermatt ski area will be completely open. And to reassure our visitors, we’re offering more flexible cancellation policies: any passes not used because of Covid, a required quarantine, or a closure of the station will be reimbursed as a voucher. This winter, we’re also prioritizing our Swiss customers. Who knows? Maybe we’ll even have the same kind of boom we had last summer. Can you already estimate the economic effects of the pandemic?Because we had anticipated ending operations in the spring, the 2019-2020 season closed with a financial loss of around 15 million Swiss francs, which, thankfully, our reserves allowed us to absorb. We decided on our own accord to fully compensate the 20% salary cut experienced by our employees who were moved to part time. This winter, all the uncertainty and the lack of international visitors will likely translate to a decrease in sales revenue of around 25%. But one thing hasn’t changed: as always, everything depends on the weather! matterhornparadise.ch

Claude Hervé-Bazin 2021-01-07 08:00:10

Air Zermatt

Injured alpinists abandoned at high altitudes recognize the approaching sound of an Air Zermatt helicopter as a small miracle. Founded in 1968 to respond to emergency situations in the valley and the mountains, the company has since diversified their services to include resupplying mountain huts, high-altitude construction, touristic flights, shipping, and heliski flights to help finance the lower-revenue rescue component of their business. A year unlike any other2020 began with a bang. Between January and March, Air Zermatt carried out over 600 rescue operations, which would have set them on course for an annual average of 1,800 missions. But then the lockdown led to a dramatic reduction in activity. In the Spring, "only three patients who had Covid-19 had to be evacuated from Zermatt and brought to hospitals in the region," explained Gerold Biner, who’s been Air Zermatt’s CEO for more than a decade. Then, starting in May, a slow return to normal life saw an uptick in the number of red and white helicopters flying to and from the Kumme gondola construction site, which connects Tufternkehr and Rothhorn, and will replace the former lift that was destroyed in a 2018 avalanche.Wanting to contribute to a reboot of local tourism, Air Zermatt went all in this summer by offering a 10% discount on regularly-priced panoramic flights. As a result, some 160 people per day had the opportunity to rub shoulders with the Matterhorn and Monte Rosa aboard an Air Zermatt helicopter. The year has been difficult for us all, but Air Zermatt has made out remarkably well all things considered, with business revenues "only" being reduced by 25-30%. Simulator and accoladesAt no time did the company lose sight of their future ambitions. The merger with Air-Glaciers, the other major player in Swiss mountain rescues and helicopter flights, had already helped the company realize some important economies of scale, even if the two companies continue to operate their own aircraft under their own brands. To make the most of the lockdown, Air Zermatt also modernized and refreshed their Zermatt terminal. They invested in an experimental flight simulator, developed in partnership with the Swiss branch of VR-Motion, an American company. The goal? To build a highly specific and precise training tool for mountain flights and rescue operations.Although they must " first get through the health crisis," as Gerold Biner temporized, all other indicators are looking positive for the company. The big boss himself was in the limelight this summer when the Divisionär F.K. Rünz Foundation awarded him their highest distinction, the Rünzi Prize, given each year by the council to someone who has performed outstanding services for the canton of Valais. The prize is yet another example that speaks to the character and spirit of Air Zermatt and its team of Mattertal Valley guardians. air-zermatt.ch

Daniel Bauchervez 2020-12-31 07:00:06

Zermatt in

Kirchstrasse 42. At the base of the Hotel Antika, just across the street from the peaceful quiet of the cemetery, lies a 50 m2 shop designed to arouse the desire of all Mood lovers. Here, the excitement ripples across social media. Everyone’s talking about this one-of-a-kind object: a ring, a simple ring, but not just any ring. Contemporary. Androgenous. Minimalist. Playful. 100% Swiss. And always in style.1001 rings No necklaces, no earrings, no bracelets. Mood only makes one thing: a single ring… with infinite possibilities. This beautifully simple yet technically sophisticated concept is the brainchild of jewellery designer Cédric Chevalley. A stainless steel (or more recently, titanium) structure forms the base of the jewel on which an inner ring is housed. The centrepiece is made of two separable elements thatsupport and retain the central ring, baptized addon. Originally composed of glass, today the centrepiece is available in a wide variety of materials: polymer, carbon, exotic wood, aluminium, acetate, bronze, rose gold, or even palladium.The Digit ring addons are expertly crafted out of silver, with the owner’s fingerprint cast into each unique piece. You can take the customization even further and have a ring engraved with a meaningful quote, a memory, or a sweet message for a loved one. If that were not enough, the brand recently also made their first successful foray into the world of haute jewellery, with addon that feature precious stones, like certified white or black diamonds, topaz, sapphire, or emeralds. These precious high-end Mood rings can be up to a hundred times the price of the original design… but we all know that true love is priceless. Let Your Imagination Run WildSo, how many different models are there? It’s difficult to say, as today the brand works with innumerable inhouse ambassadors. "Dozens of new models are released each month," explains Stéphanie Pousaz, co-manager of the collection, "resulting in hundreds of different addons on site at any given time." This year’s best-selling pieces are the Boho 2.0 collection and XS set, but still to come is the new Zermatt collection, specially designed for the launch of the local boutique.The possibilities are endless, as the chameleon Mood ring gracefully adapts to fit the personality of each wearer and every brand-picked ambassador. Swiss climbing champion Petra Klinger designed addon inspired by her favourite climbing locations, while Sébastien Buemi’s collection features diamonds made from the wreckage of one of his race cars. Meanwhile, Belinda Bencic sparkles on the tennis court with her sport-chic collection that includes 11 upcycled grey diamonds (her lucky number) made from one of her very own tennis rackets. At the end of the day, only one thing is for certain: the brand has developed a fierce following, and there are no limits to the creativity of Mood lovers. yourmood.netmoodjoaillerie.net

Sophie de Charbevel 2020-12-24 08:00:30

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