All Articles — Helvet.swiss

Verbier Festival

The festival’s instant success back in 1994 is already a distant memory. Its 25th anniversary celebrations in summer 2018 were majestic, with an exquisitely engineered line-up featuring 30 illustrious maestros, almost 300 young musicians and no less than 65,000 spectators. The programme included symphonic concerts, modern fugues, recitals, opera, unprecedented on-stage collaborations, a magnificent gala concert with soloists, and an after dark programme which included headline concerts embracing the pop scene and even secret performances. Among them, the flamboyant Russian pianist Evgueni Kissine, a loyal and long-standing partisan of the festival, and Micha Maisky. Not forgetting the pianist Daniil Trifonov, the violinists Renaud Capuçon, Maxime Venguerov and Vadim Repine — dubbed “the best and most perfect of violinists” by Yehudi Menuhin.The landmark anniversary event is celebrated in a book written by festival connoisseur Julian Sykes (published by Noir sur Blanc) which encapsulates twenty-five years of emotion, sneak peeks and highlights.Over the years, the Verbier Festival has struck up a close relationship with many big names on the international music scene. They come once then keep coming back, bowled over by the audience’s enthusiasm, the sheer beauty of the Alps and their attentive ear, the flourishing cluster of talent and the relaxed atmosphere that abounds here — a far cry from strict and sterile city venues. This bond is reflected in the unusually intimate atmosphere of the festival’s concerts, but also through the ties that grow between eminent masters and those who may one day succeed them.The festival is reputed as an excellent training ground; every year, Verbier Festival Academy puts on around a hundred master classes for musicians aged 16 to 30, while Verbier Festival Discovery runs fringe events to initiate the public. But the festival’s founder, Martin T:son Engström, doesn’t stop there. After setting up two resident orchestras, he wants to perpetuate everything that’s been learned from it. Launched in 2000, the Verbier Festival Orchestra (VFO), which is led by the passionate star conductor Valery Gergiev as of this year, has made a name for itself as one of the best training orchestras in the world. It has trained more than 1,000 young musicians aged 18 to 28, from 61 countries, most of whom have gone on to enjoy an international career. The Verbier Festival Chamber Orchestra (VFCO) is made up of musicians trained right here; they perform all over the globe and, of course, in Verbier, where they put on eight concerts during the festival, including a free open-air concert on the slopes of La Chaux. Meanwhile, younger players aged between 15 and 18 meet up for three weeks to perform with the Verbier Festival Junior Orchestra (VFJO). A great way to scout for and nurture the budding talent of tomorrow. www.verbierfestival.comwww.medici.tv (concert broadcasts)

Claude Hervé-Bazin 2019-04-04 07:00:37

Chalet Aconcagua

The true art behind architecture lies in clarity, or as Le Corbusier put it: “To create architecture is to put in order. Put in what order? Function and objects.” The Chalet Aconcagua has been designed with a precision that addresses and then immediately eliminates any conflict that could be present in its build. It’s beautiful, balanced and harmonious. Earthy browns and subtle off-whites echo the ancient wood paneling, while hints of silver accent the linens and luxurious rugs. The palette continues to graciously expand with taupe and the elegant grays of the ceramic tiles, not to mention the stunning accent wall in deep, matte black — a black so deep that light itself seems to take on new dimensions in its presence. Here, light is so much more than a simple necessity, it profoundly shapes the space and brings the many exceptional pieces of art to life, including this fantastic, stalactite-inspired suspension piece from Italy that decorates the dining room.Just mentioning attention to detail feels redundant; every single part of the space is a detail and every single element was purposely chosen. Every window and every wall was part of something bigger, an extremely well-thought-out plan to transform the 550 m2 of chalet space into an escape of cozy opulence. The high-level tech involved is also mind-boggling and just one look at the kitchens is enough to convince any chef trained in a top-class restaurant that this is a place worthy of their talent (they are often part of the in-house team managed by Haute Montagne).It’s all there: TV room, gym and, of course, the upper-level spa with a large, tiled Jacuzzi and a beautiful jade-colored steam room. In short, the Germany-based Diesigner team did more than succeed in their mission on this one: they may very well have reset the bar on what it means to design and build true luxury alpine chalets. www.7heavens.ch

Claude Hervé-Bazin 2019-03-28 07:00:51

Riffelhaus 1853

Some Swiss hotels are steeped in legend. Riffelhaus dates back to 1853, when three Zermatt locals, encouraged by the town priest and the beginnings of alpinism, set out to build an 18-bed guest house in the midst of the mountains, 2,582 m above sea level. The Gornergrat train didn’t exist then- all the materials had to be lugged up on men’s backs or by workhorses. Two years later, the Riffelhaus saw a team of climbers, led by Englishman Charles Hudson, set out to claim Switzerland’s highest peak, the Dufourspitze (4,635 m). And so the legend was born. Hotel Riffelhaus has had the same owners since 1862 and has been renovated many times over the years, with the most recent refurbishment taking place in 2014. Today, the Riffelhaus boasts a pared-down yet inviting design featuring light pine in the bedrooms (with views of the Matterhorn), stone bathrooms, wellness facilities (sauna, steam room, relaxation room), a lounge and a welcoming après-ski bar. The setting embodies remote comfort in all of its glory.However, the Riffelhaus is more than just a good bed for the night... It’s a great base, acting as one’s own HQ in the heart of the Alps. One can slip on one’s skis at the doorstep and not take them off until returning in the evening after a day of adventure. Families enjoy going up to the Gornergrat (3,090 m) to ski gently down the blue or red runs, while more advanced skiers can head over to the Stockhorn for an exhilarating free ride run over mogul fields. Others may prefer to settle down with a good book, sign up for a torch-lit descent, or careen down the sled runs at Rotenboden. Then when night comes, all that remains is silence; the stars, the moon and the soft sigh of the wind. A return to nature. www.riffelhaus.chwww.gornergratbahn.ch

Claude Hervé-Bazin 2019-03-21 07:00:11

Unplugged Festival

The very concept of acoustic music implies a sort of quest for purity, a desire to get back to the very raw, very real root of music without technology. Zermatt itself echoes this credo in many ways. The village is surrounded by 38 mountain summits over 4,000 meters high, creating a unique setting for the festival’s 14 stages that are scattered from the village all the way up to the Gandegghütte mountain cabin at 3,030 meters (also the headquarters for the Ronnie Scott’s All Stars, a iconic local jazz band).The main concerts in the village take place on the festival’s Marquee Stage, located between the tennis court and the Sportpavillon, near the Taste Village (the best place for food during the five-day event), at the Alex Hotel or at the Winkelmatten Chapel. Add to that a slew of new talent stages (accessible at no additional charge for Unplugged Festival Pass holders) that are scattered around the village near the Vernissage Hotel, the Mont Cervin Palace, the Cervo Hotel and the Chalet Hotel Schönegg. Additional stages are located inside the Sunnegga funicular station (at 2,288 meters) and at Blue Lounge (at 2,600 meters), which offers both spectators and musicians an exceptional view of the Matterhorn from its large terrace. A truly unique setting for an exceptionally intimate musical moment… And yet the event is not without its challenges. It can be very cold and the weather is often capricious. For musicians, stage fright here takes on a whole new meaning. While certain artists have been performing acoustically all their lives, other musicians find the idea of performing without any studio support to be absolutely terrifying. Only the most confident musician would even dare take the risk.Today, Zermatt Unplugged counts around 200 volunteers as part of its task force responsible for transportation, setup and takedown of some 140 tons of material. It also counts around 30,000 faithful festival-goers, who return year after year, in testament to the quality of the infrastructure, the intimacy of the performances and the exceptional festival setting.The festival will be celebrating it’s 12th edition in 2019 from April 9-13, the week before Easter weekend. The full program incorporates some 80 concerts, which will be announced on December 12th, a few days before advance-ticket sales (December 17th) and general ticket sales (December 19th). An experience not to be missed! www.zermatt-unplugged.ch

Sophie Czaplejewicz 2019-03-14 07:00:11

Charity Night

It has been 12 years since former Téléverbier CEO Éric-A. Balet organised the inaugural Charity Night. Still at the helm of the event, Balet’s goal is to raise money for a number of charities and help young athletes by bringing eight members of the public and two VIPs or snow-sports stars together around a ten-seat table for a delicious meal. There are 25 tables in all, each of which sell for a price of CHF 4,000. The 11 Charity Nights held to date have raised a total of nearly CHF 700,000. Good causesThe evening’s main beneficiary is Right to Play. Founded in 2001, it aims to educate children, protect them from war and conflict, exploitation and early marriage, and offer them the precious ray of freedom that is play. As well as giving them time to themselves, play allows them to be children, to forget about the demands made of them, and to think about their futures.The story goes back to 1994, the year Lillehammer hosted the Olympic Winter Games, when the Norwegian speed skater and four-time Olympic champion Johann Olav Koss went to Eritrea on a humanitarian mission. Faced with truly harrowing scenes, he was saddened that all he had to offer in response were toys. The nation’s president was nevertheless delighted he had brought them: “They are the most beautiful gift anyone has ever given us,” he said. “It’s the first time we’ve been treated like human beings, not like things that have to be kept alive. For the first time our children can go and play like children do everywhere else.” The charity promptly set up in Uganda, Tanzania, Mozambique, Mali, Thailand, Rwanda, and the Palestinian Territories. Today, 1.9 million children in around 15 countries across the world benefit from its programmes, which offer equal opportunities for girls, combat violence, prevent illness, and promote respect.The Charity Night raises money for two other organisations: the Verbier Freeride Association and Aide Sportive Suisse, which helps the country’s young athletes overcome financial obstacles so they can progress in their sports. The 12th Charity Night takes place on 5 April 2019. If you would like to share a table with a skiing star, then you might just be in luck: helvet has a place (worth CHF 500) to give away to one of its readers, who will be accompanied by its editor-in-chief Christian Bugnon. Head to www.helvet.swiss to sign up. To book a table please write to verbiercharitynight@televerbier.ch www.righttoplay.chwww.aidesportive.ch

Christian Bugnon 2019-03-07 07:00:19

Hotel Cervo

Daniel F. Lauber, the man behind the 5-star Cervo, the Overlook Lodge, and the Puro and Ferdinand restaurants, modestly introduces himself as “Director and Huntsman.” Truth is, he is a dynamic entrepreneur with deep local roots who shares the reigns with his ex-wife Seraina. In all of his projects, the same three ingredients take center stage: refined luxury, the Matterhorn, and the sublime surrounding mountains.The Cervo’s story began two decades ago, high above the village, surrounded by forests and the Matterhorn, which is in full view from the property’s large terrace. The main chalet and reception area welcomes a small hamlet of six other chalets around it, for a grand total of 36 rooms and suites, ranging in size from 22-86 m2, with the addition of one exceptionally large suite- the largest in Zermatt- that’s 240 m2. Each chalet has its own spa, which means there’s no waiting in line here, as is the case at many other establishments.The chalet ambiance is welcoming; it’s the exact opposite of the feeling that comes from staying in a large, anonymous chain hotel. Here the atmosphere is shaped by a cocktail of local materials (notably stone, wood, and felt) that are complimented by a collection of vintage mountain memorabilia (like old skis and hunting trophies). The rooms evoke this same spirit (some even come with their own Alpine-style fireplace), yet are also adapted to meet contemporary expectations of comfort.The consistency in decor and welcoming ambiance extend to the restaurant Puro, which was given a 14 by the esteemed Gault&Millau. Here large glasses clink together, while deep plates and wooden boards colonize the tables in a ballet of flavors inspired by fresh, local ingredients- Alpine cheeses, beef filet and Swiss game, chanterelles and wild garlic, Valais apricots and mountain-style bread. The dishes are reserved yet precise, sought-after but not convoluted, confidently Swiss with subtle hints of transalpine influences. Ferdinand offers a slightly more casual ambiance, with its fondues, raclettes, and a variety of BBQ hot and cold meat dishes that exemplify both its Alpine ambiance and its hip urban influences. The slogan says it all: 100 % pure, made in Switzerland.The latest addition to the family is the Overlook Lodge, which from a mere 300 m away shares the same stunning view of the village and the Matterhorn. This large chalet, with its impressive bay windows, is made up of five panoramic apartments, complete with a balcony and ranging in size from 51-152 m2 depending on whether one takes the studio or the penthouse. Here wide open spaces rule, with light wood, iridescent grays and taupe. The color palette is beautifully complimented by the Scandinavian-type vibes with a hint of retro- from the pastel blue dial telephone, to the schoolhouse coat rack or the portable Marshall speaker that looks like it came from the 1950s (yet has full Bluetooth capabilities)… in short, it’s a playful yet discreet throwback to former times, which still offers all of the expected modern conveniences (including a heated ski room, access to the neighboring spa, and a full concierge service). www.cervo.chwww.overlook.swiss

Claude Hervé-Bazin 2019-02-28 07:00:01

Meeting the Xtreme

Launched almost 25 years ago around a band of freeriding enthusiasts on the dizzying slopes of the Bec des Rosses (maximum incline: 58°), the Freeride World Tour exploded onto the media scene and into the imaginations of young skiers everywhere. Via video, social media, and even the big screen, images of these superhuman riders — with total disregard for the dangers involved in chasing ever-steeper and purer slopes, perfectly powdered and peppered with rocky ridges — gave form to legend.Off-piste skiing has evolved into freeriding, with an entire industry blooming around this activity: brands, specialised equipment, events, and required safety training. The FWT has grown to take the world by storm, attracting thousands of followers in the process. The circuit now includes some 150 events held annually between the different categories of competition: Freeride World Tour proper (drawing the best of the best), Freeride World Qualifier, Freeride Junior World Championships and Freeride Skiing Team Competition (Skiers Cup). The unfulfilled dream of the perfect runThis year, the FWT has stops lined up in Hakuba (Japan), Kicking Horse (Canada), Fieberbrunn (Austria) and Vallnord-Arcalís (Andorra), between mid-January and early March. But all roads lead back to the Bec des Rosses, whose summit will host around thirty of the season’s best riders in the early days of spring. No defined routes, no gates, no stopwatch, no imposed tricks. With freeriding, everything stems from the choice and the beauty of the line — its flow, what style it lends itself to, the technique and control used by the rider to navigate it. All that’s left to do is juggle the speed, snow quality, icy patches, rocks lurking just beneath the powder carpet, crevasses, no-fall zones (with zero room for error) that force riders to slow down the pace a little, and, of course, avalanches.In contrast to the image of total freedom they might convey, freeskiers and freeriders take no unnecessary risks. Every pro knows how to meticulously spot their line, burn it into their brain, and to scan the conditions using binoculars, a high-res camera, mapping software, a drone or even helicopter. Maybe not the greenest way to go, but often an essential measure to ensure survival. But then which line to choose? Thanks to their experience, the best riders are able to immediately just “feel it”. They know that ultimately what has to be delivered to the judges is a good show — one which showcases phenomenal aesthetics, risk, originality, and not to mention a few jumps to spice things up. So be sure to be present at the foot of Bec des Rosses between March 23rd and 31st, where the Event Village, first introduced in 2018, will make its return. In full sun, at the foot of the mountain face, the freely accessible site offers the ideal vantage for spectators to watch every run — except for one section of the Dog Leg couloir that will be broadcast on the on-site jumbotron. With competition that’s always getting hotter thanks to a steady stream of fierce young competitors entering the game, this season’s show promises to be bigger than ever. www.freerideworldtour.com

Claude Hervé-Bazin 2019-02-21 07:00:37

Longines
Timekeeper du White Turf à St-Moritz

Nichée à 1'800 m d’altitude, la jolie ville montagnarde de Saint-Moritz, première station à s’être vue installée l’électricité en 1864, attire aussi bien les voyageurs et les sportifs que la belle bourgeoisie internationale, et ce en toute saison. Son climat atypique qui offre 322 jours ensoleillés par année lui vaut sa réputation. Mais pas uniquement. Ici, galeries d’art ultra sélect, hôtels prestigieux, restaurants gastronomiques et événements mondains accompagnés d’un gratin de stars séduisent la communauté. #helvet s’est donc rendu dans cette bourgade de luxe où il fait bon vivre pour assister au White Turf, « gazon blanc » en français, aux côtés de Longines, partenaire de l’événement. Ce concours hippique, crée en 1907, et ses courses sur le lac gelé font partie de l’histoire de la vallée de l’Engadine. Depuis plus de cent ans, chaque année au mois de février, un hippodrome géant prend forme sur le lac, avec les tribunes et un grand village de stands pour accueillir pas loin de 35'000 personnes au total au White Turf. Et ce dimanche, lors du point d’orgue de la 80ème édition du Longines Grosser Preis von St-Moritz, dix pur-sang ont pris le départ pour dérober le Grand Prix au bout de deux kilomètres de glace enneigée et emporter le pactole qui s’élevait à CHF 111’111.-, le tout sous les yeux des 13'000 spectateurs du jour. Berrahri, pur-sang irlandais de huit ans a su dépasser ses limites et celles de ses concurrents, raflant la première place avec un timing de 2’13’’, entre les mains du jockey Kieren Fox. Beauté complexeLuigi Sala, Member of the Board du White Turf, l’explique : organiser un événement sportif sur un lac gelé est complexe. Tout d’abord, les conditions climatiques changeantes peuvent impacter les courses, le lac gelé devant être en mesure de pouvoir supporter entre 2000 et 2500 tonnes (installations, chevaux, public), avec une épaisseur de glace de minimum 30 à 35 cm. Grâce à des drones et des détecteurs de chaleur, il est possible de vérifier la solidité de la glace, et de disposer des obstacles là où elle serait susceptible d’être molle, et donc dangereuse pour les chevaux et leur jockey. De plus, il faut pouvoir protéger les chevaux lors de la course en elle-même : la réverbération de la lumière ou encore les morceaux de neige gelée projetés dans les yeux peuvent être violents. Pour le jockey, pas de différence entre le gazon et la neige. « Une course est une course », déclare Raphael Lingg, jockey arrivé à la 5ème place de la course Longines Grosser Preis von St-Moritz, avec Filou, pur-sang suisse. Par contre, les chevaux le ressentent différemment. « Certains chevaux adorent courir sur la neige, et y sont très performants, alors que sur le gazon les résultats sont moins bons. Et pour d’autres, c’est totalement le contraire, la neige et la luminosité ne leur convient pas », nous apprend Luigi Sala. Alors il faut bien choisir son cheval avant de parier dessus, connaître son parcours, son palmarès ainsi que ses compétences « tout terrain ». Une Record très à chevalGarde-temps officiel de l’événement White Turf à St-Moritz, la Record de Longines saisit en son cadran l’essence-même du sport chic et de la compétition raffinée. Tel un cheval au galop, les aiguilles des secondes courent le long du chemin de fer, passant par les index en chiffres romains ainsi qu’un guichet à 3 heure qui indique la date. Accompagnée de celles des heures et minutes, ensemble, les trois aiguilles bleuies se contrastent élégamment sur le cadran en nacre blanche, inséré dans un boîtier en acier inoxydable, serti ou non selon les goûts. En son cœur bat un étalon certifié COSC, mouvement mécanique à remontage automatique qui offre une réserve de marche de 64 heures, grâce à une fréquence de 25'200 alternances par heure. Le label « CHRONOMETER » accompagne le logo de Longines sur le cadran, affirmant l’excellence horlogère de la maison de Saint-Imier. Quatre tailles de boîtier sont disponibles, à allier avec divers cadrans existants, le tout à apposer sur un bracelet en acier inoxydable ou en cuir d’alligator, noir ou brun, pour une touche plus rétro. Nouveau cheval de bataille de la marque depuis 2017, la Record a de quoi devenir emblématique, et intemporelle. www.longines.ch

Isabelle Guignet 2019-02-18 08:56:08

Chalet Chouqui

The roofs of the village’s other chalets lie at its foot, and the village itself under its heel. Even Mont Blanc seems to shrink a little before it, as if bowing down in the distance from its sparkling horizon. Le Chouqui is one of the biggest of all Verbier’s large contemporary chalets: more than 900 m² of living space across two neighbouring chalets separated by a hedge. Far from posing a problem, big families are in fact a solution here, the only way of occupying all nine ensuite bedrooms — each with their own balconies —, the 12 spaces in the underground car park, and the 20 seats around the huge dining table.And why settle for one lounge when you can have two, which means twice as many luxurious sofas and twice as many cushions, twice the faux fur throws, twice the amount of herringbone tweeds, and twice the number of fireplaces too? The more beautiful of the two, encased in glass and seated on a slab of schist that seems to have been ripped from its bedrock, gently hums above its log store and beneath a wooden hood adorned with a bear’s head. Everything about this place is superlative, for this is the ultimate superchalet, the height of comfort, and the essence of good taste and of contemporary mountain architecture.No detail has been overlooked: the furniture — British — is custom-designed, as is the LED lighting and the wireless, voice-controlled Sonos sound system. No facilities are missing either, from the useful to the frankly luxurious: a funky home cinema room, a wine cellar with its own bar, a bunk room, games room, laundry room, and ski room. Then there are the centrepieces of this château in wood: a 15-metre indoor swimming pool, an outdoor hot tub steaming in the icy air, and a hammam lit by lights that sparkle like the night sky. And just for good measure, there is also one of Verbier’s most expansive outdoor terraces.Eleven dedicated staff take turns in making this little hive tick, right around the clock: in-resort drivers on hand 24 hours a day, concierge service, a private chef and maître d’, and a nanny and chalet hosts. All a touch excessive? Well, one thing is for sure: this is more than a chalet, or even two; it is a destination in itself, the kind of whim that only a star or a billionaire can enjoy, the ultimate form of recognition for anyone who may, at some stage, have doubted their ability to make it big. To enjoy this insane luxury is to savour a life of success.

Claude Hervé-Bazin 2019-02-14 07:00:57

Simon, Martin and Samuel Anthamatten

Anthamatten may be a familiar name in these parts, but Simon, Martin and Samuel are surely some of the most famous Anthamattens in the country. The three brothers (aged 35, 34, and 32 respectively) share an incredibly strong love for the mountains. While all three are trained as professional mountain guides, they each bring their mountain-inspired passions to life in different ways. Fireballs of EnergySimon, the eldest brother, is a highly-accomplished alpinist who was the climbing partner and rope companion for the late Ueli Steck. Together the two men took home the 2009 Piolet d’Or for their alpine-style ascent of the north face of Nepal’s Tengkangpoche (6,487 m). They were the first to accomplish the task, which was especially difficult because of a 1,700 m wall.Martin, the middle brother known for his high-endurance, works as a border guard and is specialized in ski-alpinism and trail-running. A few of his many awards include winning the Patrouille des Glaciers in 2010, winning second place in 2018 (in 5 hours and 45 minutes), and a double win at the Matterhorn Ultraks 46K (including one victory this past August). He spends the vast majority of his time staying fit at high altitudes, always searching for freedom as he pushes the boundaries of his own limits. This season he’s concentrating on the Villars (VD) World Championships and the Mezzalama Trophy, which in his words “requires a lot of energy but also recharges me.”Samuel, the youngest brother with nerves of steel, is the most well-recognized of the three thanks to his participation in the highly-publicized Freeride World Tour. He took home second place overall the very first time he participated in 2011. He is also known for having blazed a new trail, the “Anthamatten-Route,” up the north face of the Matterhorn with his brother Simon that same year. He has now ascended the Matterhorn over 40 times and climbed peaks around the world, always looking for the next mountain adventure. Shared PassionThe three brothers have loved the mountains ever since they were children. “We were always outside running, hiking or climbing,” says Martin. By the time they were 11 and 14-years old respectively, Samuel and Simon had already summited Breithorn (4,164 m), the first of many races to 4,000 meters or higher.Surprisingly, the boys’ parents are not obsessed with the mountains- in fact they often worry about their wildly adventurous sons. Their father works as a structural engineering draftsman and their mother is a stay-at-home mom, and their love for the mountains only goes so far as the regular Sunday family hike. So far, Simon appears to be the only one showing signs of calming down. After a period of focusing on his career as a guide, he now dedicates himself to mountain rescue, and has been working as a helicopter pilot at Air Zermatt since last January. “When we have to go out there and find someone who’s in trouble on the mountain, we know why we have to give it our all,” Simon explains. “Climbing a mountain for the simple pleasure of it is much less logical.”At the end of the day, all three brothers embody a sort of awe and righteousness that surely makes the mountains proud. “Mountains are not like people; they are systematically honest,” says Samuel. “If you make a wrong decision you’ll know right away. You can’t trick the mountains.” www.anthamattens.ch

Laurent Grabet 2019-02-07 07:00:40

The closely guarded secrets
of the Bagnes Valley raclette

A raclette is never a run-of-the-mill affair. It’s not something to be wolfed down quickly when you’re on the go, or thrown together for a make-do weekday supper. A raclette is always an occasion, an eagerly anticipated get-together that holds the promise of an enjoyable evening savouring a delicious Valais spread of dried meats (Hérens, obviously), cured ham and bacon, garlic or pepper flavoured dried sausage, potatoes, and the obligatory side dish of gherkins and pickled onions.But what exactly is raclette, you may ask. Well, it’s a full-fat cheese (50%) with a semi-hard rind, which is traditionally made in the Alpine pastures during the summer, or at dairies in the valley between October-November and May-June (depending on the altitude of the summer pastures). Old documents show that Bagnes’ raclette cheese had already earned itself a reputation by the late Middle Ages.Cheeses can only lay claim to the Appellation d’Origine Protégée classification which guarantees their bold character by following rigorous procedures throughout the production process: raw milk must be collected in an environmentally-friendly way (50 litres for a 7-kilo cheese wheel), transformed by an artisan cheese maker in copper vats and matured on redwood planks at 11°C for at least three months (and regularly turned), and only stored in Valais, not to mention routine quality controls. That’s what it takes to obtain one of the best melting cheeses in the world - creamy and flavoursome, floral and tangy in equal measure. Each dairy has its own number, which is stamped onto the cheese wheels; Bagnes 1 comes from Verbier, Bagnes 25 from Champsec, and Bagnes 30 from Lourtier…Raclette cheese has its own equivalent of the Oscars: the annual Fromage et Cime tasting competition which is held in mid-September in Ovronnaz, in the nearby Rhone Valley. The most acclaimed winners (three times) include the particularly fervent cheese maker Carlos da Fonseca, a “Portuguese mountain dweller” as he describes himself, who runs the Lourtier dairy in the low season and spends the summer out on the pastures in Charmotane. He is passionate about his work – he owns Hérens cattle himself – and learnt the ropes from old Bagnes locals. The cheese competition takes place during La Désalpe when cattle are moved back down to the plains, and coincides with another event organised by Bagnes Agritourisme, the Bagnes Capital of Raclette festival which features cow fighting, a folk parade and, of course, tasting sessions. www.bagnesraclette.chwww.fromagesuisse.ch

Daniel Bauchervez 2019-01-31 07:00:53

A Real Alpine Experience

Firstly, there’s the village, cherished for its authenticity and serenity, the absence of cars, and the high quality of its facilities. There’s the iconic Matterhorn, which reigns over this corner of the valley like a queen, surrounded by the largest concentration of high summits in the Alps: no fewer than 38 different peaks here reach over 4,000 m.Then, there’s the Matterhorn ski paradise: 145 slopes for all levels crisscross the 360 km ski domain between Switzerland and Italy, of which three quarters are glaciers or are covered by snow cannons in case of light snow. It’s difficult to experience it all in a single day, so one must choose: sections of Rothorn, Gornergrat, the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise (which makes the Theodul Glacier accessible, even for summer skiing), or perhaps the sun-kissed, southern-facing Italian slopes near Breuil-Cervinia or Valtournenche… Either way, one has 146 hectares of packed snow available, made up of 23% blue level slopes, 68% red, and 9% black, not to mention a snowpark and Wolli Park for kids in Sunnegga (complete with a magic carpet).It also matters how you get there. Zermatt is known for its newly-renovated, high-class infrastructure (where one rarely has to wait in line). The brand new T3 cable car connecting Trockener Steg (2,939 m) and the Klein Matterhorn (3,883 m) allows double the amount of riders to make the journey starting this winter season. It’s an impressive installation that moves quickly and smoothly across only three pillars- an exceptional feat of engineering that also offers riders extraordinary views. While Zermatt embraces new technology, it also remains true to its origins as embodied by the Gornergrat cog train, inaugurated in 1898 and still running strong today. The ride offers 33 minutes of joy with non-stop views of the Matterhorn and the long, frozen Gorner Glacier- the second longest glacier in the country at 12.2 km. So Swiss.And of course, there’s the legendary ski runs. First on the list is the run that connects the Klein Matterhorn to the heart of Zermatt: it’s 25 km of non-stop skiing and 2,263 m of altitude change. On the way, one can expect breathtaking views of the Matterhorn, notably from the Sandiger Boden slope (n°63) or the Matterhorn slope (n°69), which run close to the mountain. For the more experienced, the Pista Nera del Cervino (n°59) at the base of the southern mountain face offers a guaranteed thrill, with some passages on a 65° angle. Another accessible highlight is the “First Track” pass between Trockener Steg and Furi, offered all season long every Wednesday and Friday starting at 7:40, before the slopes open to the general public. It’s the best way to feel alone among the mountains. www.matterhornparadise.ch

Daniel Bauchervez 2019-01-24 07:00:14

Verbier Festival

Chalet Aconcagua

Riffelhaus 1853

Unplugged Festival

Charity Night

Hotel Cervo

Meeting the Xtreme

Longines
Timekeeper du White Turf à St-Moritz

Chalet Chouqui

Simon, Martin and Samuel Anthamatten

The closely guarded secrets
of the Bagnes Valley raclette

A Real Alpine Experience

Verbier Festival

Verbier Festival

Chalet Aconcagua

Chalet Aconcagua

Riffelhaus 1853

Riffelhaus 1853

Unplugged Festival

Unplugged Festival

Charity Night

Charity Night

Hotel Cervo

Hotel Cervo

Meeting the Xtreme

Meeting the Xtreme

Longines
Timekeeper du White Turf à St-Moritz

Longines Timekeeper du Wh...

Chalet Chouqui

Chalet Chouqui

Simon, Martin and Samuel Anthamatten

Simon, Martin and Samuel...

The closely guarded secrets
of the Bagnes Valley raclette

The closely guarded secre...

A Real Alpine Experience

A Real Alpine Experience

Verbier Festival

Chalet Aconcagua

Riffelhaus 1853

Unplugged Festival

Charity Night

Hotel Cervo

Meeting the Xtreme

LonginesTimekeeper du White Turf à St-Moritz

Chalet Chouqui

Simon, Martin and Samuel Anthamatten

The closely guarded secretsof the Bagnes Valley raclette

A Real Alpine Experience

Verbier Festival

Verbier Festival

Chalet Aconcagua

Chalet Aconcagua

Riffelhaus 1853

Riffelhaus 1853

Unplugged Festival

Unplugged Festival

Charity Night

Charity Night

Hotel Cervo

Hotel Cervo

Meeting the Xtreme

Meeting the Xtreme

Longines Timekeeper du White Turf à St-Moritz

Longines Timekeeper du Wh...

Chalet Chouqui

Chalet Chouqui

Simon, Martin and Samuel Anthamatten

Simon, Martin and Samuel...

The closely guarded secrets of the Bagnes Valley raclette

The closely guarded secre...

A Real Alpine Experience

A Real Alpine Experience

Longines
Timekeeper du White Turf à St-Moritz

The closely guarded secrets
of the Bagnes Valley raclette

Longines
Timekeeper du White Turf à St-Moritz

The closely guarded secrets
of the Bagnes Valley raclette