With one eye on the mountain

There are places where eating rhymes with serenity. Places where hunger, when sharpened by pure mountain air, summer’s light on alpine pastures and the chime of cowbells, becomes all the more insatiable. Crans-Montana, with its 300 sunny days a year, offers a wide array of delightful summer dining options accompanied with a view.

Why make things complicated when they can be simple? When the urge for a good meal with a beautiful view takes hold, the ski lifts are already on call, offering several options just a few minutes from the ski resort.

Direction Cry d’Er
At 1,947 m in altitude — an intermediate stop on the way to Cry d’Er — Merbé’s panoramic terrace unfurls from its chalet. As you take in the gently clicking gondola before you and the dramatic peaks of the Valais Alps, you can also feast on onion soup, tartare, an Alpine cheeseburger, Buddha bowls or dry-aged meats on the bone (aged up to 52 days). Bonus: a lovely Franco-Italian-Swiss wine cellar to accompany your meal.

Moving a notch higher (in every sense of the word), Chetzeron awaits within its former gondola station that’s been reinvented as a Design Hotel. At 2,112 m, the mountain view grows inextricably more profound (with four terraces, no less!) and the table steps up its game. Here, deckchairs designed for a relaxed apéritif; there, large tables set for lunch; and just there, hammocks for relaxing after a fantastic meal… While the venue certainly revisits tradition, local seasonal produce still reigns over it all. The wine list continues in that same vein, favouring Swiss terroirs. There are three ways one can reach the restaurant: burn calories climbing up from Crans-Montana (1h30—2h), gently glide down a ski slope from Cry d’Er or book one of the Chetzeron’s 4x4 Defenders.

Below, between hiking trails and ski runs, Chez Erwin can easily be reached from Plans-Mayens. This house with red shutters is run by Lionel Reynaud — the brother of the Michelin-starred chef at Pas de l’Ours. On the menu: smiles and hearty Valais cuisine, enjoyed best while juggling family-style boards, veal sausage, grilled meats and Corbyre cheese fondue. For a sweet note, try the meringues topped with cream from Gruyère.

Direction Les Violettes
1,974… not a year of birth, rather the altitude of the Buvette de Pépinet, which is squarely placed, with an ever-watchful terrace that overlooks the scenery. The establishment is a solid old stone building that’s rustic in character and the menu follows suit: fondue, croûtes, tartiflette — in short, cheese on every level (along with pinot noir). Naturally, the cows are watching. And no, they don’t take credit cards.

“Magical” may be the best way to describe the Cabane des Violettes, anchored to the rocks just 234 m higher (2,208 m), a few steps from the gondola. Here you enjoy lunch with a mountain view or around the stone oven if it rains (good heavens!), with cooking conceived by the great Chef Franck Reynaud (who scored 18/20 points at L’Ours in Crans-Montana). Quality local produce, a warm welcome and famous Swiss efficiency make for an experience that regulars keep coming back for.

Going ever higher
Another short ride on the cable car and you’ve reached another summit. At around 3,000 m, look to one side to take in the entire arc of the Pennine Alps, from Mont Blanc to the Simplon Pass. On the other side lies the vast, white spread of the Plaine Morte, Switzerland’s largest plateau glacier. Up here, between sky and ice, you can refuel at the Restaurant de la Plaine Morte while you enjoy a stunning panoramic view.

Want to go further? A 1.5-hour walk from 2,789 m will lead you to the Wildstrubelhütte SAC on the eastern edge of the Gelten-Iffigen nature reserve. On the menu: a very rocky hike — often dotted with snow in early summer (tricky in fog) — followed by a soup of the day, a croûte, rösti or assiette montagnarde (mountain plate) to restore your strength. A little coffee and cake, and you’re good to go again!

Timeless experiences
On the Aminona side, your first stop could be Plumachit along the Bisse du Tsittoret (1,800 m) — reachable by car if needed. Alpine scents and views abound, along with a children’s playground and a hearty-fare, no-fuss menu. A little further, the Relais de Colombire embodies the hamlet charm of yesteryear mayens (mountain huts), with its own gorgeous panoramas to boot. While the dining room here embraces pared-back modernity with raw concrete, the wooden terrace is a feast for the eyes and the fondue pots remain squarely rooted in tradition. To wash it all down, enjoy a craft beer from La Marmotte brewery, and — if you book in advance — you can even spend the night.

If not, the smell of sizzling sausages on the grill may lure you even further down the road. A 30-minute walk along the bisse leads to the Cave du Sex (1,950 m). Nestled where the larch trees meet the pastures, this buvette boasts classic Valais-mountain soul — no pretence and plenty of authenticity — with its woodchipped terrace and generous rösti.

On the pasture’s hillside, the Mayen de la Cure chalet (accessible by car in summer) also features local cuisine, which is both tasty and served with a smile (thanks Filippo!). Regulars swear by the establishment’s famous trilogy: the south-facing terrace, rösti

and beef tartare. Le Petit Paradis de Cordona adds one final terrace to our long list of gourmet viewpoints. This friendly but under-the-radar Alpine buvette is perched just above Miège, at around 1,300 m, on the way to the Pichiour waterfall. Expect sincere Valais cuisine, punctuated by the occasional impromptu game of pétanque (aka French boules). On weekends, enjoy delightful coquelet (cockerel), a roast or spit-roasted ham. Let’s eat!