Zum See

High in the mountains

Author
Claude Hervé-Bazin
Copyright
Marc Kronig | Lucas Meier
Release
Winter 2023-2024

Zum See has been serving delicious and authentic gastronomy for over four decades as one of Zermatt’s most famous high-altitude restaurants. Join us for a conversation with Zum See’s friendly owners, Max & Greti, and their son and daughter-in-law, Markus & Marion, who now run the restaurant.

There are no roads here, just narrow walking paths or the nearby ski slopes. Zum See is a small hamlet composed of 30-some stone-roof chalets, stables and larch wood barns that have been blackened over time, poised in a 1,760-metre-high Alpine pasture. In the distance, the peak of the Matterhorn rises high above a thicket of protective Larch trees, like an iconic postcard view of Valais, frozen in time. The modern Furi gondola lift is just a 15-minute walk away but seems light years ahead in time.

In December 1976, Max and Greti came to Zermatt for the winter. He’s German and was working as a sauce chef at the Grand Hotel Zermatterhof, she’s Austrian and was working as a server at the Walliserhof. The couple had been together for four years and visited Switzerland often. This time, they decided to stay.

Two years later they had their first child. In their free time, the young couple enjoyed long strolls in the hills above Zermatt, where they fell in love with Zum See and its modest namesake restaurant, which was run by the Taugwalder family. Time passed and Max became a chef at Hotel Pollux working with a large network of suppliers. Suddenly, in 1984, their dream became a reality: despite their modest finances and having three small children to care for, Max and Greti decided to take on the challenge of running Zum See.

Where tradition and authenticity reign
Back then, mountain restaurants were very rustic, serving hearty dishes like rösti, croûtes au fromage, or bratwurst to hikers and skiers. Max and Greti saw an opportunity. “We also wanted to offer a selection of finer dining options. “Since the beginning, we’ve been making our own pasta and serving dishes like soups, vegetables, salads, veal liver, lamb filet, and even, on occasion, smoked salmon,” they explained. Their plan worked, and with their success the menu evolved even further.

Today more than ever, fresh ingredients are the star of the show. The fish is imported daily from Zurich, the meat is delivered by Matterhorn Fleisch AG, and most of the wines they serve are from Valais. “I like to describe our cooking as truly authentic,” says Max. Although other chefs have since taken over for him in the tiny kitchen, all the recipes are still his. “Our biggest focus is making everything in-house,” adds Max. “Our cooking is consistently honest and of the highest quality”.

Unexpected encounters
Charmed by the restaurant’s authenticity, customers return regularly year after year, bringing children and grandchildren, and sometimes becoming close friends. “Some clients have been coming here since we opened, and we hear from others regularly.”

Max and Greti have also welcomed their fair share of VIPs. One story still makes Max laugh to this day. It was a busy winter night at the restaurant, and to accommodate all reservations they seated two couples (who had reserved two separate tables) together at a table for four. Strangely, two of the clients did everything they could to move away from the other two. While Max and Greti thought it was strange, they didn’t think twice about it. Then, at the end of the night, one of their regulars clued them in. “You didn’t recognize them? That was the king and queen of Belgium and their bodyguards, who were trying to let them enjoy an intimate meal.”

The new generation
Markus has been helping his parents at the restaurant on the weekends and holidays since he was a child. In the early 2000s, after receiving his degree from the Lausanne Hospitality Business School (EHL), he spent a season working at Zum See with his parents. Then, after a few formative years in New York, he came back again with his partner Marion. He couldn’t resist the call of Zum See.

As time went on, the young couple settled in, got to know the regulars, and familiarized themselves with the day-to-day running of the restaurant. In 2022, Max and Greti decided to retire and Markus and Marion stepped in to take their place. “It’s a huge challenge,” admits Markus. “We can’t do it exactly the way they did it, because times have changed and we’re not the same people we used to be. But Marion and I will do all that we can to carry on their legacy and famous warm welcome.” Their mission? “To make every one of our visitors smile.”

zumsee.ch