Verbier – Zermatt

While the biennial Patrouille des Glaciers follows this route from Zermatt to Verbier, more often than not this trail is taken in the opposite direction. Why? To save the best for last and finish with the breathtaking views that come with the 4,000 m inner mountains that surround Zermatt.
The beginning of the route is rather easy: using a set of climbing skins, one heads towards the Col de La Chaux (2,940 m), with Mont Fort just above (3,330 m) and the Bec des Rosses (3,223 m) just ahead. A short descent is next, followed by a beautiful sun-kissed climb in the cotton-white, over ridges and flat zones until arriving at Rosablanche (3,336 m). Towards the south lie the Grands Combins in all their glory and, in the far-off distance, Mont Blanc. All one has to do now is ski down the Glacier de Prafleuri towards its cabane (mountain hut) at 2,662 m, where hot showers await.
Day two begins with a climb towards the Col des Roux (2,804 m) and a rather long, inconvenient crossing over the eastern slope of the Sâle towards the Pleureur, always heading in the direction of the southern side of Lake Dix (which may be difficult to recognize if it’s still under winter’s snow). From there, a large rocky overhanging leads narrowly into the Pas du Chat. It takes 4-5 hours to reach the Dix Hut from here, giving one plenty of time to soak in the spectacular views of the north face of Mont Blanc de Cheillon (3,870 m), which towers above the Val des Dix.
The next day’s long, steep climb towards Pigne d’Arolla (3,790 m) is broken up by an icy passage requiring crampons and roping up at La Serpentine. The reward is not far off and the summit offers unobstructed views of the entire Haute Route passage, from Chamonix to Zermatt, from Mont Blanc to the Matterhorn. While soaking in the views, true Haute Route regulars may find their minds already drifting towards the rösti that awaits them at the Vignettes Hut.
Day four is dismal. Strong winds brutally drive the sleet into any bit of exposed skin with a biting sting. The climb to Col de l’Évêque (3,386 m) feels never-ending and the descent over the Arolla glacier feels more dangerous than amusing. The final leg towards the Bertol Hut includes a dishearteningly steep climb (nearly 800 meters in altitude change), and an obligatory climb over long metal ladders that are drilled into the rocks themselves… ugh.
And yet the last part of the journey boasts incredible views, making it worth the struggle, especially when good weather returns. The exceptional lookout reveals the Tête Blanche (3,710 m) at the Italian border, Dent Blanche (4,357 m) to the northeast, Dent d’Hérens (4,174 m) ahead, and the Matterhorn (4,478 m) in the distance. The five-hour descent down the northern slopes towards Zermatt takes one between serac tops and suspended glaciers- a journey that feels almost too short given the unparalleled beauty of the view. On a technical level, the trail is designed for skiers in good physical condition who are able to travel four to five hours at medium speed (at around 300 m in positive altitude change per hour). Verbier and Zermatt mountain guides organize guided expeditions of the route that usually include equipment, along with room and board in the huts along the way.

www.zermatters.ch (Zermatt mountain guides)
www.cabanedesdix.com
www.cabanedesvignettes.ch
www.bertol.ch
www.slf.ch (avalanche updates)