
La Valise Tulum
A Garden on the Riviera Maya
This isn’t just a beach — it’s an anthology of white sand. Powder-soft. Wide as a landing strip. Fringed with coconut palms stretching for ten kilometers or more. Such is the Riviera Maya. Such is Tulum — a sleepy port until barely three decades ago, now a darling of glossy magazine covers.
Once, Tulum was a Mayan port, its modest temples peering out over the Caribbean, iguanas basking on its protective walls. The conquistadors, blinded by their own greed, never grasped the site’s true value: its beauty. Its shore. Its endless horizon.
Today, a narrow coastal road lined with palms and bougainvillea threads its way between beach bars and palapas, dense gardens, restaurants, and barefoot-chic hotels. Kilometer after kilometer, the thump of nightlong parties fades, replaced by the rustle of trade winds through the branches.
Beyond imagination, promises the slogan. Behind an unmarked wall, La Valise instantly delivers. More than a hotel, it is a lush garden concealing the dream home of a modern-day Robinson. Just nine rooms — no more — radiating intimacy and warmth, opening wide to the tropical air beneath soaring palm-thatched cathedral ceilings seven meters high.
At the heart, perched above all, the Master Suite unfurls over 95 square meters. Its bed rolls out onto the terrace, front-row to the sea, inviting nights beneath a canopy of shooting stars. To either side, more rooms drift lightly above the treetops, veiled in gauzy curtains. A bench carved with jaguar heads here, a chandelier with a menagerie of creatures there, along with hammocks, wicker parrots, cushions in sun-bleached hues, and an abundance of exotic woods.
Downstairs — on the Jungle level, to be precise — a fortunate few laze in their private plunge pools, surrounded by thick vegetation, rinsing off the Caribbean’s salt only steps away at the end of the garden.
For those unmoved by yoga or Mayan rituals (though why not indulge?), the ultimate therapy lies in claiming a daybed set directly on the sand. Beneath stripped palms. Or under the blazing sun. A slice of languid bliss in rhythm with the surf, skin bronzing, beads of sweat gathering in the tropic heat. No need to leave: the restaurant Nu comes to you.