An iced coffee and a summertime swim

“I walked with a certain exquisite pleasure, savouring each instant as though it were an eternity” Jean-Jacques Rousseau, Reveries of a Solitary Walker

One sometimes forgets the deep impact that Genevan philosophy has had on the city’s character. It has sharpened the critical thinking that still defines Geneva to this day… but then we remember the importance of knowing how to lose oneself fully in the present moment. And so, we walk. Join us as we take a summer stroll across Geneva in the spirit of Rousseau, while we reflect on the wise words of this rebellious and solitary walker.

The philosopher’s story began in the heart of Old Town Geneva, at 40 Grand-Rue, where he lived from 1712 to 1717, as the commemorative plaque notes. This discreet building, which became the Maison Rousseau et Littérature (MRL), is home to a permanent, multilingual and multisensory exhibition that reveals the inner universe and social conflicts of this author, interspersed with visionary quotations that make one question many of our modern-day challenges. The space welcomes temporary exhibitions, debates and readings by primarily Swiss Francophone authors. Highlights from the summer calendar include guided Sunday tours with the theme “Rousseau, Whistleblower” and an evening on 30 June in homage of the poet Philippe Jacottet. It’s a perfect opportunity to discover the new ground floor café and its hushed ambiance that’s simply perfect for getting lost in a book…

Take a break in Old Town
Just across the street, the café and English bookstore Pages & Sips could almost be the MRL’s English-speaking literary twin. Open the cute green door… on your right, books from floor to ceiling! On your left, a counter overflowing with succulent scones, cookies, and slices of tangy cake that seem to have been flown in straight from Sydney — a slice of Australian café culture, lovingly brought to life by Emily Aubry, a Swiss-Australian globetrotter. It’s a local HQ for wandering writers and digital nomads during the week, but the café bans laptops on the weekends. It’s an approach that would have pleased Rousseau, an attempt to force workaholics to abandon their addiction and immerse themselves in a joyous, lively conversation, as Abba plays in the background.

The unmissable Île Rousseau
At the foot of the city’s founding hill, the Rues Basses leads to the Pont des Bergues — where a footbridge invites wanderers to this miniscule island on the Rhône River. Erected in 1835, a bronze, pensive Rousseau (made by sculptor James Pradier) presides over the island, quill in hand, shaded by plane trees, overlooking the turquoise waters dotted with swans. It’s a haven of peace, where you can take in Geneva’s

beauty beneath the poplar and willow trees… Could this be the secret to happiness? Every summer, a pop-up café-restaurant brings new life to the historical pavilion, built in 1912; an annual initiative led by the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues, which offers summer visitors a surprise gourmet treat.

Pilgrimage to the Right Bank
From the sandstone terraces of the Right Bank, one goes up Rue Rousseau — erroneously named back when it was thought the philosopher was born here! He did, however, live close by, at 28 Rue de Coutance, where he developed his love for writing from 1718 to 1722. A large Manor department store — erected despite local opposition from residents and intelligentsia — has stood on the site since 1967. Could the author of The Social Contract possibly be turning in his grave?

To rediscover our master writer’s spirit, take a meditative pause in one of the lovely and oh-so-unique boutique establishments that have recently blossomed in this romantic neighbourhood. Take Calico, for example, with its delightful, high-quality coffee served by true connoisseurs, or Christie’s Bakery, where you can enjoy a delicious Ukrainian pastry. Just a few steps away, at the Place de-Grenus, Baristar also proposes a palette of multi-coloured drinks, served hot or iced, ranging from pea flower (blue!) to pastel matcha green. And let’s not forget Madame (no. 2), at 8 bis Rue de Coutance, a hip new brunch option for the neighbourhood.

Time for a swim
As a naturalist of his era and a believer of water’s healing properties, Rousseau liked to spend time on the banks of the lakes. And even though in his time one hardly ever bathed, nothing forbade a good swim, especially in the spirit of freedom Rousseau embraced — just be sure to bring a book and swim towel in your bag!

At La Jonction, the spectacular meeting point of the Rhône and Arve rivers, Genevans have carved out their own corner of summer paradise, far from the everyday bustle, where tanning in the sun is accompanied by reggae or other music offered by the DJ of the day. Nearby, the distinct colours of the two rivers collide in silence.

Hop on a mouette (small water taxi) to cross the harbour. Next stop, the sparkling beach at Eaux-Vives, which was inaugurated in 2020. This pebble beach on Lake Geneva brings French Riviera vibes to the Genevan Right Bank, next to a refreshing lagoon and a reed bed that is part of an urban renaturation project.

A bit further (10 km), the beautiful and family-friendly Hermance Beach welcomes the Jazz sur la Plage festival on 8-9 August. Pleasure-seekers and creative souls of all ages are sure to be delighted by the combo of sandcastles and saxophone solos!