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A ski area in a class of its own
Zermatt
When it comes to skiing, Zermatt has a lot going for it: 360 kilometres of slopes shared between Switzerland and Italy; the highest ski area in Europe at 3,899m; and the possibility of skiing 365 days a year. Zermatt is perfectly groomed slopes, the most beautiful views in the world, an authentic Alpine ambiance, and superb off-piste runs for skiers who like their snow powdery.
One of the great things about Zermatt is that it guarantees snow at a time when global warming leaves many resorts struggling to deliver on that front. Its vast ski area comprises three interconnected sectors: Sunnegga-Blauherd-Rothorn, Riffelberg-Gornergrat-Stockhorn, and Trockener Steg-Matterhorn Glacier Paradise, which peak at 3,103m, 3,532m and 3,883m respectively. The highest button lift even climbs up to a height of 3,899m, a mere 15 metres below the world’s highest, in Breckenridge, Colorado.
Zermatt has everything a beginner could dream of: plenty of snow all to themselves and well away from the major runs, as well as travelators, fun and games, and free passes for kids under 9 years old and even for under-15s on Saturdays. Older skiers have the lion’s share of the runs, two-thirds of which are red and several others a dark red bordering on black. And how about exploring the Italian side, where the slopes are more sparsely populated and the scenery is every bit as amazing? Just make sure you don’t miss the last ski lift back to Zermatt though.
Skiing off the beaten track
If you had to choose just one location it would be the Stockhorn. When large quantities of snow fell last January, blanketing rocks and crevasses, seasoned skiers turned out in numbers to sample its legendary “yellow” runs (36 kilometres of semi-managed back country runs), which were in perfect nick after the stormy weather. Lovers of moguls are in seventh heaven on this 1,100m face, which tumbles down to the Findelgletscher, while freeriders can express themselves by the side of the run.
On the other side of the glacier, the Rothorn boasts yellow runs of its own on a western face scored with rocky ravines, where the wind whips up large pillows of snow. They line the majestic black run through the trees from Blauherd and Petrullarve. If you wish, you can continue through the rock garden beneath the chairlift.
The wow factor
There are many memorable runs waiting to be explored, all with the assistance of a guide from the resort’s Alpine Centre and with the necessary safety equipment. You’ll have to strap the seal skins on and slog it out a little, though if you don’t want to work up so much of a sweat then head past the Breithorn and the Klein Matterhorn to the Col de Schwarztor. It is a route that features a long gentle rise offering stunning views of white peaks, a pristine carpet of snow and then a slalom between seracs. The route leads to the Gorner Glacier, from where it heads back out via a wall of rock. The sense of achievement on returning to Zermatt is huge, as is the desire to do it all over again. The Breithorn, Cima du Jazzi, Fluhhorn, Fillarhorn or Pfulwe? The choice of a point from which to start again is yours.
If you’re looking for something even wilder, then try a spot of heli-skiing on Monte Rosa (skiing only), the Alphubeljoch (snowboarding also) or the Aschihorn. The helicopter whips up a blizzard as it takes off but once it’s gone the silence deafens, the spirit soars and the adrenaline rushes. The slopes are soft and inviting, your eyes drawn to the virgin landscape. Civilisation is so far away, 2,500m down below, and the descent a long and silent dance between four thousanders and glaciers. It’s a dream fulfilled.
