A picnic in the park

The numbers say it all: 310 ha of green spaces, 70 ha of forests, 40,000 trees and as many roses… Geneva is certainly not short on chlorophyll! Distinctly local, many of the 60-some parks — which were bequeathed to the city by prominent 19th century families — contain remarkable
villas and trees. Ever eco-conscious, the city has banned the use of chemicals in the parks and actively works to sustain their biodiversity.

Grass, trees, villas, and views
Hop on a shuttle boat (mouette) at Pâquis, change boats in Port-Noir, and head towards the Right Bank (rive droite), one of the most beautiful green spaces in Geneva. Here, five continuous parks encircle the famous Perle du Lac, with views of the bay, the Jet d’Eau, Mont Salève, and the Alps. Between the vast lawns, flower beds, and tree-lined pathways are several 19th-century mansions, maintained by various museums and institutions. There’s Hotel Mon Repos, where Hans Christian Andersen and François Châteaubriand stayed; the magnolia-shade of the Villa Moynier, which welcomed Madame de Staël and Queen Victoria; the neo-Florentine Villa Bartholoni with its large tulip tree; or even the pink Villa Barton, surrounded by its own mini forest of Californian redwoods.

The nearby Botanical Gardens double as a conservatory (with 3 million seed reserves), on 28 ha between the park and the United Nations. The first in Switzerland, it contains 14,000 plant species that are all organically cultivated. Highlights include the Dawn Redwoods, thought to have been extinct, and an impressive collection of tercentenary plants. Bathed in light, the iron and glass greenhouses are filled with cacti, Spanish moss that tumbles down like rain and other epiphytes, rare palms, ferns, and exotic fruit trees like mango, banana, and even papaya. It’s a trip around the world without ever leaving the city!

Behind the train station, Switzerland’s oldest Lebanese cedars, which were planted 288 years ago and have a circumference of 6 m (!), create shade in Parc Beaulieu. Some of their seeds took root on the Left Bank, in the Parc La Grange, which can be reached via mouette. As the largest park in Geneva — extending north via the Parc des Eaux-Vives (site of the Geneva Open) — the Parc La Grange occupies an 18th century domain centred around an elegant villa, which welcomed Biden and Putin in 2021. It’s surrounded by massive lawns dotted with lace-like flowers, remarkable trees, and winding alleys that lead to a pond, an Alpine rock garden, and a rose garden. A free summer music festival, Musiques en été, takes place here on the shady Ella Fitzgerald Stage. And if you’re looking for a bite to eat, La Guinguette du parc — which is housed in the old creamery, under charming arcades — proposes cheese and charcuterie boards, the perfect snack between two games of Bocce Ball, with a glass of wine or an Apérol Spritz. The deckchairs beckon… vacation vibes guaranteed!

A sweet summer outdoors
Despite its often-staid reputation, Geneva is truly a city of “bonne vivantes.” In the summer months, Operation Lounge Chair takes hold and hundreds of lounge chairs are placed in the city’s parks at no charge to encourage socializing and spending time outdoors. Looking for a place to have a picnic? Here things are taken to the next level: barbeques are installed in the Parc La Grange, the Perle du Lac, and the Parc des Franchises. Other spaces organize their own weekly barbeques open to the public. Even the libraries move things outside by hosting a variety of outdoor lectures and workshops.

Almost everywhere musical stages and pop-up bars flourish: at the Jardin des Nations (with house lemonade), Parc des Chaumettes, Parc des Franchises, Parc Bertrand, or even the Pointe de la Jonction. At the Parc de La Perle du Lac, you better check the schedule: from mid-July to August 20, CinéTransat hosts outdoor movie screenings, complete with an inflatable giant screen and a lush lawn to lie on.

Looking for something more unusual? In July-August, a 7-hole street golf course is setup in the heart of the city. Each afternoon, clubs and foam golf balls are loaned out from the chalet in the Parc des Bastions. The rules? Maximum 7 swings per hole and passer-by’s have the right of way. After your game, take a walk between the old town and the Rives du Lac via the Treille Promenade, the Jardin Anglais, the Brunswick Monument, and back. So many panoramas to see, and that’s not even including a ride on the lakeside Ferris wheel. The city, the bay, the Rhône, and the parks… you’ll want to take every bit of it in!