Saint-Martin-de-Belleville
The art of mountain living
Tucked into its small sunny valley, on the side of one of the world’s biggest connected ski areas, the village of Saint-Martin-de-Belleville is such a gem that we hesitate to even share its secrets. If you seek authenticity and hushed luxury, look no further: this is the place.
In the heart of the Tarentaise Valley, in Vanoise National Park, the Saint-Martin (1,450 m) winters offer vast Alpine horizons. From there, a gondola ride leads to Les 3 Vallées, one of the world’s largest ski areas with over 600 km of slopes. The resorts of Les Ménuires and Méribel are closest, with Val Thorens above and Courchevel beyond. The highest peak is 3,230 m. Expect sunny skiing, with around half of the nearby slopes being family-friendly, along with a controlled freeride run (La Riondaz, a Liberty Ride zone) for those who love to dip their skis into ungroomed Alpine powder…
Savoie ambassadors
Set away from the crowds, the Belleville valley only started attracting tourists in the 1970s when Chef René Meilleur opened La Bouitte, a raclette restaurant, in the hamlet of Saint-Marcel. A few years later, the French President Valéry Giscard d’Estaing and the King of Spain Juan Carlos, who are both avid skiers, enjoyed a meal there. Soon after, Chef René, who is completely self-taught, set his sights on the highest honours that can be bestowed upon a chef and slowly began to climb the ladder. Accompanied by his son Maxime, he forever changed the history of Saint-Martin-de-Belleville by obtaining a Michelin star… then a second and finally, a third. What’s the secret to his success? Cuisine that embodies the heritage of the terroir, while striving to be more than what it seems, brought to life with that special father-son energy — which was only further reinforced in 2024 when the third generation took the helm.
A Relais & Châteaux hotel now goes hand-in-hand with the restaurant, complete with exposed wooden beams, antique furniture, thick wool furnishings, a friendly ambiance and attentive service that’s inspired by the mountainside. It’s destination hotel in of itself, which makes the trip (only two hours from Geneva) more than worth it.
Enhanced authenticity
Saint-Martin-de-Belleville’s authenticity comes to life in the heart of the village, where, behind a stone façade, Le Montagnard lays claim to its own rise to fame. Recognized by Gault&Millau, the establishment was once a stable for Pépé Nicolas’ farm animals, until his grandchildren transformed it into a restaurant. More than 20 years later, they honour their great-grandfather — who was a pioneer in developing the ski resort — by ensuring “every product has a story and every dish has meaning”.
From the terrace, enjoy views of the church’s baroque belltower and undisturbed clusters of chalets and farms. There are no high-rise buildings here and everything is at peace with nature. But the setting’s rustic charm hides many modern comforts, like at Chalet Éden, where the Japanese philosophy of wabi-sabi comes to life, complete with a Nordic bath, indoor pools and spacious rooms with large windows, for total mountain immersion. Or at Chalet Escapade (630 m2!), nominated as the “World’s Best New Ski Chalet 2025” by the World Ski Awards, which features a private spa and an in-house chef for the ultimate in cozy luxury. Just a few steps away, the luxurious wood and stone (5-star) M Lodge & Spa offers its own version of hushed opulence, with 90 m2-duplex suites.
Away from the world, beyond time
If Saint-Martin had a motto, it would be exclusive yet family-friendly, serene yet welcoming. Whether in the intimacy of the M Lodge’s piano bar, on the Lodji’s terrace for après-ski (a local staple with stunning views!) or at the many winter pop-up bars in the main village square.
As the holidays approach, magical lights illuminate the Christmas market and holiday festivities, with abundant mulled wine and hot chocolate, bimonthly concerts at the church, a torch-lit ski descent and weekly fireworks during school holidays. The village’s roots become living poetry, embodied within the tight-knit community. It’s a timeless safe haven, a refuge from the rush of the world. A place where tensions dissolve during a week of late-season Yogiski or throughout the year in the spas and warm waters of the La Belle Vie wellness centre, perched on high for breathtaking panoramic views. It’s luxurious, virtuous (powered by 80% biomass) and steamy, with three saunas — one of which is panoramic. Saint-Martin-de-Belleville? It’s the place you’ve been looking for.